I might post an odd review here but I will not return ratings or reply to communications. Feel free ...
I might post an odd review here but I will not return ratings or reply to communications. Feel free to contact me through dooyoo, Helium or igougo - or directly on magdadh@hotmail.com
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**** NOTE: this review concerns only Aegina and not the other Saronic Gulf islands and would be of more interest to day trippers than resort-dwellers****
Aegina is one of the islands of the Saronic Gulf and possibly the one island which is closest to Athens (apart from rather industrial/military Salamis). It takes only about an hour from Piraeus to get here (half of the time if taking a hydrofoil) and thus it's a prime weekend and holiday spot for Athenians, as well as being a package tour destination.
We have visited Aegina on a Sunday which is perhaps not the best day to choose, though it was mitigated by the fact that it was only May. We didn't come from Athens but from Methana (on the other side of the gulf), on an almost empty morning ferry, accompanied only by a few families dressed in their Sunday best, obviously going visiting.
The ferry stops in the Aegina town, the main settlement located on the western side and flanked by two smaller islands: Angistri, which apparently boasts a Caribbean-standard beach (I am suspicious of any boastful beaches in Greece, so far I have seen none that were truly impressive) and is a small-scale tour destination of its own, as well as Moni which doesn't have any settlements. We have not visited these but they can be reached quickly by a shuttle boat from the Aegina port.
The town of Aegina is rather pretty, with busy fishing/yachting harbour, couple of old caique boats serving as
fruit stalls and the seafront lined with pastel-painted houses with dark shutters and often a canopied cafe on the street level. There is even a small, very white and Cycladic looking chapel near the end of the ferry pier.
It's all very touristy, with lots of souvenir shops, horse-driven buggies (15 euro/20 mins) and peddlers of sunglasses and CD's displaying their wares; but somehow the fact that the tourists are mostly local (well, Athenian) makes it all more benign and more interesting. The back streets are a little quieter and provide their usual Mediterranean charms of sun and shadow painting their patterns on peeling paint and in narrow alleys. Ouzeries and seafood places abound and octopus seems to be hanging over from every second awning.
We spend some time wandering about the town and then get the bus to visit the main historical attraction which is the Doric temple of Aphea, located about 45 minutes trip away. The bus ride itself is interesting enough, climbing up surprisingly green, lush hills covered in pistachio orchards. Pistachios are everywhere in Aegina and in all kinds of formats (roasted, nougats, bars, preserved in syrup, even what looked like pickled). The roasted ones we tried were flavoursome and addictive and seemed less sickly than the supermarket article in Britain, but then we were eating them in a more appropriate environment!
The bus is quite crowded but a lot of people get off at the church and monastery of Agios Nectarios, a newly built an apparently the largest church in Greece. Despite its newness the church is built along the same vaguely Byzantine lines that the Greek orthodox churches have been following for many hundreds of years. It's these churches, old and new alike, that make me realise to what extent even the modern Greece still straddles the line between East and West, Europe and Middle East.
The temple site is almost empty when we arrive, though several visitors come soon and then they are followed by a tour bus. The entrance fee is a very reasonable and the site is modest which is all rather surprising as the 5th century B.C. Aphea temple is the most important archaeological site in the Saronic Gulf.
The superimposed lines of the Doric colonnades including the double internal one (which would not be visible in its time as it was hidden inside the cella) are well preserved and create a complex array that can be contemplated from each side. The temple slightly predates Parthenon but it achieves the same harmony of the pure, Classical building and it's a wonderful structure to look at, smaller but dignified and beautiful.
It's not an excessively huge site and anything from 15 minutes (quick run round) to an hour or so ( to see it from every angle, admire the views three ways across the Saronic Gulf and visit the small museum which houses some finds from the site as well as info on Aegina's and the temple's ancient history ) would be sufficient.
There is no facilities as such at the site and the toilets and refreshments are provided by a nearby cafe/souvenir shop. The ambience of the cafe is enchanting, with log tables and vines which provide shade, but the prices are steep as expected for the captive market of visitors and coffee not very good.
We go back town and after a stroll round the back alleys have a lunch in one of the numerous fish tavernas. This one has no sea view, but an air of authenticity provided by its location directly to the back of the fish market. It's run by a Greek-Russian couple and I spend a very pleasant 20 minutes talking to the Russian half in a pathetic but efficient mixture of Russian, Polish and English.
Later on we walk towards the town beach which, especially at this time of the year, before the season really begins, seems decidedly manky and off-putting. We continue further to try and find a nicer stretch, but it gets worse rather then better, with another little beach clearly used as an informal camper-van parking and the following stretch of the rocky shore literally covered with rubbish and smelling rather foul too.
We have a peak at the local archaeological site which is, unfortunately, closed at this time of the day (it's a ruined area of Apollo's temple of which one standing column remains visible) and the return to the harbour to eat more pistachios and await the ferry back. Ours is the last one and thus before it arrives we are treated to a fascinating spectacle of last Piraeus ferry being loaded with cars, motorbikes and what else; with much arm waving and shouting what seems like a double number of cars is squashed in!
***Verdict***
My three star rating is just that: average. It's certainly not the best Greek island I visited (and I only visited a few of them and all close to the mainland) but is by no means horrible and worth a trip, especially if you are staying longer in the general area of Athens or Saronic Gulf. It is very conveniently accessible by frequent ferry and hydrofoil services which run mostly to Aegina town, but also to the resort of Agia Marina on the Attica side of the island. The ferry wouldn't cost more than 8-9 euro return (I travelled from the other side so I am estimating here) and takes about an hour, the hydrofoil would take half the time and cost double. The bus to Aphea temple runs hourly and costs 3 euro return, the entrance to the temple site was 4 euro.
I cannot comment on resort villages here (though there are positive opinions regarding Agia Marina). I would guess that the Aegina town would be difficult to cope with in the high season, especially on summer weekends, when all the Greek as well as foreign tourists arrive here. I wouldn't pick Aegina for a longer stay, but I would suggest a day trip if you are in the vicinity, ideally in the middle of the week. Apart from Aphea, I would try to factor in a visit to Paleohora, Aegina's ruined Byzantine capital and/or possibly a hop to Angistri.
Photos courtesy of http://www.aeginagreece.com/
Pictures of Saronic Gulf Islands (Greece)
Aegina Town Waterfront
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Aegina is one of my favourites, but then I know that if you walk just a bit further down the road past the pistachio grove, there is a wonderful beach, hidden in the pines!
I am back there in October - just 2 weeks!
kollarosie 20.08.2005 13:50
What a wonderful review. Fantastic reading.
JayHall1991 12.08.2005 18:03
Don't think I fancy this one, it doesn't sound as if there is that much to do there. Still I suppose it beats my holiday in sunny ol Wales.
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Advantages: A small and friendly island. Good value for money.Good food.Wonderful climate.You will want to go back. Disadvantages: The ferry trip or hydrophoil from Athens. Getting your luggage to and from where you stay if you land at Aghia Marina.Then the walk to where you are staying.The holiday is down to you. It will be what you make it.
Advantages: A small and friendly island. Good value for money.Good food.Wonderful climate.You will want to go back. Disadvantages: The ferry trip or hydrophoil from Athens. Getting your luggage to and from where you stay if you land at Aghia Marina.Then the walk to where you are staying.The holiday is down to you. It will be what you make it.