Sicily (Italy)

____ What's it About? ____

Sicily is the largest of all the Mediterranean islands and roughly has a population of about 5 million. It is a volcanic island, the famous of which is Mt Etna. Technically, Sicily should belong to Africa as they lay on the same continental plate (Italy's 'toe' lies on the European plate); however because of the influx of Romans and Italians, they claimed it as their own.

The climate in Sicily varies. In summer the heat can be unbearable (last time I was there it topped 47°C! We were sitting in the street with my relatives and this gust of boiling air swept over us! The locals knew this to be the start of the heat wave.) And in the winter it's been known to snow dreadfully. A good few inches were reported 2 years ago.

I would advise this: If you're looking for a complete beach holiday to sit around and sunbathe then I'd go from about June-Aug. The land will look rugged and dry and can be harsh, but the beaches are what you're there for!

The weather starts to deteriorate from Sept-Feb. We usually come to visit family during this period as flights are usually cheaper.

If you're going to be sightseeing and travelling its best to go in the spring when the grass and greenery is still about, from about March - May. It's truly beautiful.

____ Where to Go______

There are nine provinces to visit, each with their own places to see and things to do. I've made sure the pronunciation is included as some names can be really hard to pronounce!

--- Agrigento (Ah-gree-JEN-toh) - Home of the famous Valle dei Tempie, Valley of the Temples. Hundreds of ruins to look around and with no entrance fee it's a great day out! The majority of my family live in this province. The beaches here are fantastic, in particular San Georgio (St George) and Tre Serene (Three Sirens)

My nonna (grandmother) comes from a small village called Calamonici (cal-ah-MOH-nee-chee) and this holds a festival every August. There is a parade in the evening and usually famous singers attend, I heard Marc Anthony sang there once. When night falls there are the most impressive fireworks over 'Pharoahs Mountain'. They rival any that can be seen here!
Lucca Sicula (LOH-cah see-COH-lah), Caltabellotta (CAL-tah-beh-LOH-tah) and Ribera (ree-BEAR-ah) are lovely villages to visit, and Sciacca (Shee-AH-kah) is home to the famous baths and underground spas. A quote from the tourism board states: 'Many illnesses can be treated with the vapours, such as rheumatisms, skin diseases, gynaecological problems and allergies. In the premises the mud therapy is practiced for arthritis, bath therapy for osteoarthritis and skin disease and respiratory therapies.' There are geysers that reach about 40°C, its worth a trip down there!

N.B As the majority of my family live in and near Agrigento this is where I'll be focusing my attentions in this review, however the whole of Sicily is a little gem and all the provinces have their own treasures, its simply a case of finding them!

--- Caltanissetta - (cal-tah-knee-SEH-tah) This is located in central Sicily. This is a very agricultural area, with few tourist attractions. The capital city (the same name) isn't that attractive compared to other areas nearby, but its still worth a quick visit if you're passing. You're sure to find a few good restaurants, but like I said earlier it's a case of sniffing them out!

--- Catania - (cah-TA-nee-ah) Located to the east of Sicily, this region has many sights and places to visit. The most famous of these has to be Mount Etna. It's the largest active volcano in Europe and stands at over 10,000 feet! Because of the many eruptions, though, this figure is rising! There are organised tours available and hikes up the mountain and I would strongly advise using one. It gets chilly up there though, so pack some warm clothes for the ascent!

Some other places of interest are the 'Castagno dei Cento Cavalli' which means the chestnut tree of one hundred horses. This is apparently the oldest tree in the world and is a popular venue for tourists and scientists alike.

Another place worth a visit is San Gregorio. This village features some of the strangest grottoes in the world. They're home to bats and other creepies that live in the dark! Scary!

--- Enna - This is the only province without a coastline, but the scenery, especially in the spring is unsurpassed! Centuripe (Chen-too-REE-peh) is well worth a visit, its home to vast ruins dating back to the ancient Greek and Roman times, including castles and spas. There is a museum there also, although last I heard it wasn't free admission.

A place worth going to is Sperlinga (spare-LIN-gah) which has an old Norman castle that offers tours, visit this website for more information:

http://sicilia.indettaglio.it/eng/comuni​/en/sperlinga/turismo/turismo.html

--- Messina - (meh-SEE-nah) This province is at the North East of Sicily, almost joined to Italy. If you were driving from Italy to Sicily you would inevitably pass here. One place that is a must is the amphitheatre of Taormina (Tah-ore-MEE-nah). Originally it was used as a roman theatre with the gladiators, and then was converted to an amphitheatre. Today it is very occasionally used for a variety of plays and the like, but this is not common. The views are fantastic and have always stuck in my mind. Be careful for snakes in the dry season!

--- Palermo - (Pa-L-AIR-moh) The town of Palermo is the capital of Sicily, however the province itself is vast. Palermo in itself is a very modern city and is very cosmopolitan; it's not unusual to see people from Africa and Eastern Europe here. Compared to some of the other large towns it is very modern, but still maintains its agricultural heritage. There are many a fine restaurant here and journeying out from the main city you're bound to find some great, cheap places to eat. Some of the beaches around here are fantastic and well worth a visit.

Cefalu (Che-fah-LOO) is a nice place and has an amazing cathedral as well as beautiful beaches. There are many nature reserves in the Palermo Province and are worth seeking out if you're visiting in the spring.

--- Ragusa - (Rah-GOO-sah) This province is located at the South Western tip of Sicily. This is a very popular tourist area and this seems to have replaced the fishing and agricultural industries in the area. Tourist-wise the beaches are the best place to head to. There are churches and cathedrals to visit in the area, some of the best being in Ragusa the town, Acate (ah-CAH-teh) and Scicli (SHEE-clee)

--- Siracusa - (Sih-rah-COO-sah) Siracusa is located on the South Eastern tip of Sicily. Again, it is a very well known tourist site, it's probably more famously known by the Americanised name: Syracuse. This truly is a magnificent province. The architecture is very dramatic and you can still feel the luxury and gloriousness despite the years that have rolled by. A visit to Dionigi's Ear (dee-OHR-knee-jee) and the other caves is a must. These caves are manmade and the Ancient Greeks used the hewn stone as building blocks for the town. The caves were then used as prisons.

And finally… save the best 'til last…

--- Trapani - (TRAH-pa-nee) One of the most excellent provinces. Located in the extreme West of Sicily, this region is well known for its wine production. One place that you MUST visit is the beautiful town of Castellmaro del Golfo. The scenery is unparalleled and is worth the journey, especially as it's so close to Palermo.

Selinunte (seh-lee-NOON-teh) boasts the best ruins in the whole of the country. Hundreds of temples and theatres, most still standing, are a sight to see.

Santa Ninfa has to have a mention, my aunty lives here. It's not so bad as villages go (it suffered a terrible earthquake a few years ago and is in the process of rebuilding) If you ever need quality wine and cheese, look out for Antonio Galfano (if you've ever seen Asterix and Obelix, he's Obelix!)

The best beach to go to is San Vito lo Capo, and to get there you have to pass Castellmaro del golfo (cah-stel-MAH-reh del GOL-foh)! It has the most Tropical beach I've ever seen, and I've been to Thailand! The water is clear and it's no surprise to see shoals of fish swim with you! It does get extremely busy though, so it's worth getting there early.

____ People ____

So now you know the places, what about the people you'll be meeting?

In the small, hidden villages the majority of people you'll see are older ones (usually sitting outside their houses, watching the world go by) and parents with small children. The community in these small villages is very close knit, when one person does something within an hour the whole village would know. The people themselves are generally pleasant, but can be very loud and boisterous at times. The Sicilian temperament is often portrayed as bold, brash, arrogant, conceited, ambiguous and to an extent obnoxious. But it is more a mix of passion, zeal, eagerness to please, a race that is full of warmth and kind-hearted people that you'll meet. They love tourists and know how to show them a good time!

In the inner cities, mainly Palermo and Catania, the attitude is more modern. There are a few more young ones here as the job opportunities far outweigh the prospect of working the Vendemia, the job of cutting the grapes from the vines. This is usually performed in August and the heat is unbearable. I helped on Antonio Galfanos vineyard and it is hard, hard work. At least I got to drive the tractor! In the inner cities, life is similar to here. Houses will have air-con and will usually have a computer with the internet too.

The younger ones can be a pest, but are far better behaved than some of England's yobs, hooligans, chavs and the like. They are very respectful of their elders. The lads will shout things like 'bellissima' and 'bella' to the girls, but once ignored won't try again! The girls aren't flirty and are usually dressed impeccably (they are very fashion conscious, both the girls and the boys). Apparently, according to some, the sunglasses are the epitome of the outfit.

Queues don't exist in Sicily, it's more a case of first come first served. And when in Rome… or Sicily… do what they do. It's not uncommon to hear of frail old ladies elbowing their ways to the front of the queues. You just follow suit.

When out for a meal, tips are expected if the service is good, of course. If you don't tip, most won't care, some may ask why you didn't and arguments can ensue. Don't get lured in! But if you make friends with the waiters and restaurant owners they really love it. They love the fuss and will treat you to free ice creams or even a free meal before you leave Sicily!

____ And on another note… Language ____

Why is this here? "Surely Sicilians speak Italian?" you may ask. Well, you'd be wrong! Sicilians speak, well, Sicilian. Or 'Sicilianu' (see-shee-LEE-AH-noo). Because Sicilianu isn't recognised as its own language many of the schools teach their pupils Italian. However in the home, Sicilianu would be spoken.

It is a mix of a variety of cultures. Based on Italian, the language has Greek, Arab, Norman and Spanish influences. The language itself isn't dissimilar to Italian, but there are a few noticeable differences.

For example, do you know the Italian word for beautiful? Of course you do, its bella/o (depending if you're saying it to a boy or a girl) How would a Sicilian say it? Bedda/u. That's right, the 'LL' sound is replaced with 'dd'. It's not a 'd as in dog' sound, more a 'j' and 'd' and 'r' mixed together. To pronounce it, put the very tip of your tongue on the roof of your mouth and slightly curl it back. With a puff of air and teeth together almost force the 'dd' out. There is usually a short pause before this sound. Bella flows quite nicely and evenly, however 'bedda' is almost divided into 2 separate words, 'beh' and 'dda'.

Take a look and see what you think!

English - Hair
Italiano - Capelli
Sicilianu - Capiddu

English - goat
Italiano - capra
Sicilianu - crastu

English - Chicken
Italiano -Pollo
Sicilianu - Gaddro

How about this?

English - A thing of beauty is a joy forever
Italiano - Una cosa bella e una gioia per sempre.
Sicilianu - 'na cosa bedda è 'na gioia pi sempr'

Yes, it is strange. I don't understand it and I was pretty much raised in a Sicilian environment! The majority of people will speak Italian and English, so there's nothing to be worried about with that side of things! It's just fun to know about it! (even funnier to hear it.)

____ A Word of Warning ____

As with any country you visit, be careful where you go. I don't want to end on a bad note and I know it sounds stereotypical but there are Mafiosa there and some will take advantage of you if you're acting silly. My nonno (granddad) was a shepherd and he was stopped on many occasions on a lonely mountain road, often it was a case of 'give me what you have on you or we'll kill your sheep'. As he was a shepherd he couldn't lose them, so he did hand over his money, cigarettes, watch and sometimes even his sandals on more than one occasion.

Don't walk on the country lanes on your own at night. After a meal, most of the locals will go for a walk and this is fine to do. However walking on your own 2 or 3 o'clock in the morning is a bad idea and could end up with trouble.

In some of the rougher areas (mainly in the cities) if you see someone lying on the side of the road, DON'T STOP. This is a common trick used by thieves. They will lure you out of your car, beat you up and steal whatever valuables you have, if not the car itself. If you do see someone, call the police and they'll sort them out.

____ My Opinion ____

I love this country. It is so fascinating and so laid back. The accommodation can be pricey, but I don't have that problem! The best place to look is on the internet rather than travel agents. See if there are apartments available and take advantage of them. If you are coming for a beach holiday I'd recommend about 2-3 weeks there if possible. Sightseeing about 1-2. I stayed there for 5 weeks once and still didn't want to leave.

Sicily is part of the Euro now so prices are fairly cheap. Depending on where you go will depend on the cost of food, clothes etc. In the small villages supermarkets and clothes shops can be expensive while restaurants will be cheap (a tabisca pizza, 4 people sharing will be about 12 Euros) whereas in the cities, restaurants will be dearer than supermarkets. Overall, the cost of things is almost the same as Italy.

Sicily is a real little gem that is still a relatively unknown island compared to those of Ibiza, Lanzarote Gran Canaria *shudder* and therefore can be quite an untraditional choice of location. Give it a go and see what you think! And if you have been there before I'd love to hear your experiences of what it was like!

Hope you enjoyed the review!