The trip to the Engadin, promised all summer, had somehow failed to happen. My Uncle was arriving for his first time outside of Ireland. So it was a last chance.
Road access to the Engadin from the rest of Switzerland has always been limited to non-existant in Winter. The only routes go over high mountain passes that are often closed by snow.
We studied the long range forecasts anxiously, snow kept being promised for the mountain regions, then never materialising. Incredibly, in CantonBern, the sun was still splitting stones in the last week of October. This means nothing, the weather variations in tiny Switzerland can be extreme.
We decided to take a chance and rented a small traditional house, far more reasonably than any hotel, for 3 people for 3 nights, for about $200 total. The house was in Scuol, almost by accident, as they were the first to return our call.
At the last moment our minds were put at rest over the possibility of being stranded, or having to drive home via Italy. A new Rail Tunnel, carrying cars into the region was in it's preview phase. To take the car in under the mountain, by train, would cost less than $10 (the full price is pretty reasonable too.
Scuol is the most beautiful place I have ever seen, or would ever wish to. A small town, with many of the unique traditional houses, hugging a fast flowing river surrounded by towering peaks.
It is also an old Spa town, with ultra modern hot baths fed by natural springs. One of the churches stands on a high precipice over looking the river. Scenically it is unforgettable.
The traditional houses are unusual, low ceilinged, vaulted, stone built. They have no true right angles, or harsh lines. They are covered in beautifully hand-decorated stucco and ornamental woodwork. Worth seeing in their own right.
The house we rented was a museum piece in a fantastic state of renovation, wood panelled rooms, stone floors (with underfloor heating) and old tiled stove. It also had every conceivable mod-con including a dishwasher, and plenty of china.
Scuol is also worth seeing for it's buildings alone. We even found an old hotel on the West end of the town which seemed to have been renovated in every sense 60 years ago, then just left to slide into a graceful old age, quite complete, ever since. It was like a time warp. The food was fantastic (but then, if the food isn't fantastic you aren't in Switzerland).
We aren't skiers, so I cannot comment on that aspect, but all facilities (closed until mid December) seemed to be available.
When we arrived there had still been no snow. Even the peaks were almost naked after the summer.
The second day we began to drive to St Moritz (about 20-25 miles on a good road) and the snow began to fall with a vengeance. We had to turn back, it was a blizzard. We retreated into the house, ate a little and waited. The snow was hardly more than spindrift by the time twilight crept in upon us. We decided to venture out, into a completely private winter wonderland. There were no tourists, most of the locals were taking their annual holiday.
Everything was fresh, white and magical. We stood on the far side of the river and watched the lights come on in the little town. It truelly was a private Christmas eve out of a childhood dream.
To recommend Scuol for skiing alone would be a crime. Scuol is SO MUCH MORE than a ski resort.
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