St. Omer (France)

I'll begin this review with a word of advice to those otherwise lovely Britons who might pronounce the name of this little town as something like "Synte Homer". It's better to say it like the title with a great big overemphasised "rrrrrrr", just for fun. This way you avoid people treating you as rosbifs only over for the cheap booze . . . which of course couldn't possibly apply to anyone, could it!

I lived for ten ...
...job teaching in a little school. Although northern France is not traditionally considered the beauty spot of the country, it holds many surprises, including this town which has some chocolate-box buildings and a stunning park in summer. The northern coast between Boulogne, Calais and Dunkerque is also particularly beautiful on a clear day, and is part of a national conservation area called the Opal Coast (Cote d'Opale) Park. Considering the cheaper ... more

I'll begin this review with a word of advice to those otherwise lovely Britons who might pronounce the name of this little town as something like "Synte Homer". It's better to say it like the title with a great big overemphasised "rrrrrrr", just for fun. This way you avoid people treating you as rosbifs only over for the cheap booze . . . which of course couldn't possibly apply to anyone, could it!

I lived for ten months last year in St Omer for my gap year job teaching in a little school. Although northern France is not traditionally considered the beauty spot of the country, it holds many surprises, including this town which has some chocolate-box buildings and a stunning park in summer. The northern coast between Boulogne, Calais and Dunkerque is also particularly beautiful on a clear day, and is part of a national conservation area called the Opal Coast (Cote d'Opale) Park. Considering the cheaper Channel crossing fares at the moment, it's worth spending a few days here.

GETTING THERE

It's about 50 minutes south of Calais by car if you drive cautiously, and for this I would advise not to use the motorway, but to go via a little town called Ardres, which is signposted off the short stretch of motorway necessary after leaving the Channel Tunnel. This is a more direct way which avoids the tolls, and also goes through a little French countryside. One more warning about cars: St Omer is full of one way streets. Hotels are signposted but you might find yourself lost as it's a bit of a maze, so take care. There are plenty of parking spaces, mostly paying but only about 3 euros per day.

By train, you will need to use Eurostar and change in Lille. There are regular trains to St Omer from Gare Lille Flandres, about 5 minutes' walk from the Eurostar station, although the timetable is weird on Sundays. It's not too expensive and I did it several times, Lille - - - > St Omer return would cost about 15 euros for an adult. Journey lasts about 50 minutes.

By ferry and on foot (I assume if by car you will use the Tunnel, it's faster, but if not directions are similar from Calais), you can catch a shuttle to the station in Calais. From here there are direct trains to St Omer which again will cost about 15 euros return for an adult. I did this sometimes too and it's quite acceptable. Again it will take about 50 minutes.

HOTELS

There are several, one 3 star (Le Bretagne, near the station but a bit out of town), at least two 2 star and a host of smaller B&Bs, as well as bigger chains such as Formule 1 and Mr Bed in the suburbs. I have personal experience of the 2 star hotels, which are the Hotel les Frangins and the Ibis. Both of these are in the very centre, a stone's throw from the main square (Place Foch), and offer similar services.

The Frangins is listed by Logis de France, which is a good thing. It charges 62 euros per room per night and has fairly modern fittings, I would say about ten years old. Although the stairs are tiny it has a spacious lift for baggage. The room we stayed in was small but clean with a comfy bed, satellite TV, shower and accoutrements, and was entirely what we expected for the price. Sadly we didn't sample breakfast as this lasts only till 9:30 (far too early!), but as normal in French hotels it will cost you a further 7 euros each. There's a restaurant and bar attached to the hotel, both of which look nice.

I prefer the Ibis as it has several advantages, despite having a very similar price (I'm fairly sure it was 62 euros plus breakfast for 6 euros). It has free car parking, although not much; all rooms have baths and the bathrooms are shiny new with hairdryers; the beds have duvets rather than blankets; breakfast lasts a bit later although I can't remember when; they also do room service. It has wheelchair ramps. You can book online via the Accor Hotels website.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

On a short walk around the Place Foch and its little arteries you will see 90% of the best of St Omer. The square contains the town hall, a large building in what I am led to believe is typical of Flanders/the North, pale grey stone with lots of fancy carvings around the edges. I don't know anything about architecture, sorry! Its clock tower is visible from many of the surrounding streets, a useful landmark. Around this is a tree-lined car park which becomes the market on Saturday mornings - so beware if you leave your car parked there on Friday night, it won't be there the next day! The edges of the square are mostly made up of restaurants, bars/brasseries and, oddly enough, banks.

Cars are directed round the square via the one-way system, and if you come off onto the Rue de Dunkerque you will have found the main shopping street. This is what you'd find in most little French towns - Sephora, Yves Rocher, Etam, Promod, Jules and Casa are relatively big names - but above the bright shopfronts you'll see the buildings are still the same, Disney-roofscape variety of elsewhere. About 20 minutes' walk down this street and along the river you will find the station.

Another little street that leads off the Place Foch, which you can't drive down, is the Rue des Clouteries. It's tiny and narrow but very pretty, with lots of smaller shops including a mouthwatering chocolaterie that are worth a visit. It leads onto the Place Victor Hugo, which is where the Hotel les Frangins is if you stay there.

Next is a street whose name I forget, but it's basically the only other route cars have out of the main square. It has the Hotel Ibis and two excellent restaurants, among others, as well as the cathedral at the end.

Finally, and as I'm illogical this is where you will probably have driven in, there is the Rue du Lion d'Or (I think). It has two main attractions, the town park which is really beautiful in summer and all year round has a mini zoo with deer and birds, and the cinema.

Word of warning: watch out for the dog mess! They've not yet cottoned on to the idea of pooper-scoopers in this place. Or rather, they just don't bother.

EATING

Mmmmmmm. Why do we all go to France anyway?!

Although not a big foodie, more into the plain traditional fare of England like roast chicken and apple pie, I've experienced some yummy dishes in St Omer. Local specialities include the "flammekueche" which is basically a heavier sourdough version of pizza (not too good to be honest, but then again I'm not a big pizza fan); waffles, as there is a distinct Belgian flavour to the area; beer, as St Omer has its own brewery and it will be served to you in a large wineglass with loads of frothy stuff; and locally grown vegetables, especially cauliflower. Local strawberries are big in summer, too. There is also a custom of serving food on a "planche", or wooden platter. Sounds weird but it's just a fun thing they'll do in some restaurants.

Speaking of which, the three restaurants I've visited regularly are the following:

La Brasserie Audomaroise (means St Omer's Brewery literally!) -

Just off the Place Foch behind the "Dickens" pub. Serves all the traditional brasserie fare such as steak, hot dogs, chips and pizza, as well as flammekueche, pasta, salads and a wide range of desserts. Chocolate mousse is amazing. It specialises in beer and is therefore also a great place for a quick drink. Warm, atmospheric interior with dark red leather and wood furnishings, with a no smoking zone downstairs.

L'Estaminet (which means Ye Olde Cafe, pretty much) -

A yellow facade on the road that leads up to the cathedral, just off the square. It doesn't look like much from the outside but of course this belies the food; this place is fantastic! It has a bilingual menu which makes things easier, and again serves all the usual brasserie dishes plus a large range of salads and pizzas. It does some food on the wooden platters, too. According to my other half there will never be a better steak. Serves excellent kir royales and tasty puddings.

L'Auberge something-or-other -

To my shame I can't remember the end of its name, but it's just opposite the Estaminet and has a long low window with lacey curtains. It's slightly more expensive and specialises in Italian food, which is delicious. Possibly not an option with small children as the food isn't really brasserie-style, but I'm sure they would be welcomed all the same.

The first two of the above would not cost more than 15 euros each for two courses unless you go for something pricey, and the last not more than 25. On my last visit to the Estaminet we had 3 courses each plus drinks for 35 euros in total. It's astonishing. If you can book in advance by popping in during the day, do so, but if not you won't have to wait too long for a table.

For snacks during the day, there are many chips/burger bars on the main square, or for something a bit more French go to La Fringalette on the Rue de Dunkerque, opposite Yves Rocher. It sells freshly made takeaway crepes with a massive variety of fillings for 2-3 euros each, waffles, dougnuts and sandwiches; or you could sit down (only about 5 tables but ever so pretty inside) and eat a galette, which is a savoury crepe with perhaps ham or egg inside. They do a hot chocolate which is actually melted chocolate mixed with milk. Yummy.

Of course there are also the hugely tempting boulangeries/patisseries - I can think of 5 around the square alone. Baguettes, rolls, pains aux chocolat, croissants, chocolates, cakes, anything full of carbs and sugar they will sell. It is all delicious. Some also do sandwiches.

SHOPPING

I won't go into great detail here; it's self explanatory really. Unless I say otherwise the shops are on the rue de Dunkerque.

For women's clothes, French shops are a bit cheaper and some are very stylish. Etam is much better than the English version; Camaieu and Promod also have pretty things. There is a Pimkie for sparkly stuff, too! For men, try Jules which has some very good quality and fashionable clothes; there's also a shop called Devred. Eram on the rue des Clouteries has great shoes, but there are posher shops around for those too.

Marie-Jeanne Godard is the name of the parfumerie in which hides the Sephora goodies; Yves Rocher is cheaper, great for grown-ups and little girls too although the shop here is only about a metre squared.

Majuscule sells fountain pens, books, stationery galore and art materials, but for magazines try a newsagents' which will have a yellow "Tabac" sign above it. There are many.

Marche Plus is a little supermarket that has a good selection of wine etc, as well as cheese, chocolate and other treats. It's handy if you can't be bothered to drive to Auchan which is in a suburb called Longuenesse, not too far out, or Carrefour which is a little closer.

For more original items, there are several artistic boutiques in town selling paintings, sketches and postcards among other things; a good one is diagonally opposite Hotel les Frangins. Next to that shop is a delightful "furniture" shop which sells everything from Degrenne silver cutlery, through tea sets and tablecloths through to Swarovski crystal. Expensive, of course, but lovely to wander around. Casa on the rue de Dunkerque is a French version of Ikea with some very pretty and practical items, and a fab range of candles.

TOURISM

The tourist office is beside the cinema, and is open all year round at various times. They'll be very helpful with directions and leaflets.

These are the major attractions in the town and surrounding area:

- the cathedral. Built before Notre Dame in Paris, it's huge with a mixture of styles but from an inexperienced eye it's very Gothic with all the arches and whatnot. Worth a trip especially as it's so central. Around the back, if you find it, there's a gorgeous little mini-maze of buttresses and tiny cobbled streets.

- the Musee Sandelin. This is down the road past the Hotel les Frangins (this place seems to have become my marker!), half a minute's walk, and was re-opened last summer in a blaze of local glory. It's an old manor/small chateau that now houses lots of old French furniture and paintings, and has a large garden at the back. It costs a few euros to get in, but provides a pleasant diversion.

- the municipal park. In the summer the flowers are lovely and it's got swings galore for children, as well as being somewhere to sunbathe with an icecream. In winter, you can still see the little zoo which has deer, pigs and a few other animals, hidden round the back a little but only about 10 minutes from the main square.

- the "marais", or marshes. Around St Omer the farmland is criss-crossed by little canals and water channels, some barely wide enough for a small boat. Mostly these mark out strips of land, which they can take tractors to on boats, believe it or not, where the local vegetables etc are grown. In Salperwick, about a mile from the centre (best to drive, follow signs to Calais, it's then signposted very close), you can hire rowing boats. It's very pretty, especially in good weather.

- the "Cristallerie d'Arques", a glass and crystal factory from which most Coca-Cola glasses in Europe come, as well as many many other things. It's about 15 minutes' drive, but has a fascinating guided tour, in English too, and a discount factory shop with beautifully-made things.

- two Second World War bunkers, "La Coupole" and the "Blockhaus d'Eperlecques". Actually I think the first is something more exciting than a plain bunker and the second was going to be the base for V2 rockets. I haven't visited either, but they're open most of the year and look like they're good for children and men whose wives/girlfriends are enjoying the shops.

Further afield, there is the seaside (try Gravelines, Wimereux and Ambleteuse, or of course Boulogne or Le Touquet which are trips in themselves), which is nice in the summer.

There is also the city of Lille. I have never driven there, but went on the train several times and it's a wonderful place, especially this year for the Capital of Culture - the effects of which will last into 2005, in case you don't make it in the next two weeks! It's also a trip in itself, but if you just want massive shops and a taste of real Flanders architecture, go for the day. The two stations are very central.

HIDDEN GEMS

For the ladies with some time on their hands, book any beauty treatment at Yves Rocher. They're not too expensive and mmmmmmm, the massages are good. Marie-Jeanne Godard also offer spa treatments, but are more expensive; there's a new place on the main square too which promises a Turkish hammam.

For everyone, the cinema is inexpensive (7.20 euros is the highest price, and children are just 5) and even if your French isn't great, a rainy afternoon watching a film is always good. The seats are sooo comfortable in there!

If you walk a fairly long way (15 minutes plus), following the signs to the "Ruines" down the rue Saint-Bertin, you will reach first of all an amazing red brick building that's actually a secondary school - it looks like a very elaborate church, only all in brick. Not much further, visible from the station, are the romantic old ruins of the abbey Saint-Bertin, which was what catalysed the development of the town.

SUMMARY

Oh dear, this review is far longer than I meant it to be...!

St Omer is a charming little town (okay, sprawling suburbs, but you don't need to see them at all!) with all the traditional French advantages such as tasty bread and cheaper shopping, but also with a rich cultural history. Enjoy it, and don't tell too many people.

(I've ticked most of the boxes below as you'll find them all, but not all in the hotels.) 

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