I got a summer job in Helsinki, Finland's capital, for three months and my boyfriend came over to join me for two months of my stay. This leaves us several hundred miles from all our friends, not speaking the language and looking for things to do. Last weekend, we headed out to the sea fortress Suomenlinna for the day with a picnic.
~~~ Brief History ~~~
The building started on the fortress in 1748 when Finland was still a part of Sweden. The fortress was supposed to defend Helsinki against attack from the Russians, who had a powerful navy at the time.
Suomenlinna is remembered for it's rather unfortunate record in war. The Russians captured Helsinki in 1808 and the island surrendered immediately.
The next attack on the island didn't happen until the Crimean War. Fortifications along the coast of Helsinki were bombarded from 1854 to 1846 and Suomenlinna was attacked for 47 hours and was badly damaged.
In 1973 ceased to be a military base and was given over to civilian administration. Now, there are about 900 people who live there and it's a regular tourist attraction.
~~~ Wandering round ~~~
You can't wander very far on the islands without seeing fortifications. There are old walls, earthworks, huge cannons and other signs of its military past. There are tunnels and man-made caves at frequent intervals. Many of these, the public are allowed to go into, but it's recommended you take a torch.
There are plenty of paths around the islands and steps up the hills, but there's nothing to stop you just wandering across the grass. Most of the main islands are grassy with a few trees. It's a lovely place to sit with a picnic. Near the buildings, there are old roads which are largely cobbled, so make sure you wear comfortable shoes.
There are cliffs which offer wonderful views across the sea towards the city or the other islands. There are areas where the ground comes down to the water and you might see people going swimming. The northern of the two main islands has a church in its centre that we didn't get to go inside because when we went there was a wedding going on.
We spent about three hours just walking round the main two islands and enjoying a pleasant lunch in the sunshine. There's plenty to see. You can pick up a free map from the visitor centre and decide what you want to look at. Particularly interesting points will have information boards at them, including an English translation.
~~~ The Museums ~~~
We didn't go in any of the museums, but there's a great variety to interest a wide range of people.
~ Suomellina Museum ~ Covers the history of the fortress. 5 euro for adults, 4 euro for concessions
~ Ehrensvärd Museum ~ Looks at Suomellina during the Swedish period. 3 euro for adults, 1 euro for concessions, children under seven go free
~ Toy Museum ~ Somewhat unexpected in a fortress, this museum exhibits thousands of old toys. 5 euro for adults, 4 euro for concessions, 2.50 euro for children, children under two go free.
~ Military Museum ~ Features the national defence after Finland became independent. 4 euro for adults, 2 euro for concessions, children under seven go free
~ Vesikko Submarine ~ An actual submarine used in the Second World War. 4 euros for adults, 2 euro for concessions, children under seven go free
~ Customs Museum ~ A look at the customs authorities in the past and present. Free entrance.
~~~ Restaurants ~~~ There are plenty of places to eat on Suomenlinna. As I said, we took a picnic, so I can't say what the food in any of these is like, but there is a decent amount of choice available.
Restaurant Café Chapman Suomenlinna Brewery Restaurant Café Piper Café at the Toy Museum Restaurant Walhalla Walhalla Terrace/Bar Nikolai Pizzeria Café Vanille Café Bar Valimo, Marina Restaurant Yläkerho Särkänlinna Restaurant
~~~ Facilities ~~~
There's a visitor centre near the centre, where one of the ferries docks. Here you'll find toilets, maps and information. There are also a few large maps around the island and the occasional toilet.
There's a museum shop, glass and ceramics studios and, somewhere, a grocery store. You'll also find a post office and a library. After all, people do live here.
~~~ Getting there ~~~
There are regular ferries from Helsinki harbour which cost about 5 euro for a return ticket. The commuter ferry accepts the Helsinki travel card (like an Oyster card, but it works on the buses and trams as well).
We caught the JT-Line water bus but there is also the Suomenlinnan Liikenne ferry. They cost about the same and set off from berths about a hundred metres apart on the harbour, so I'd just suggest turning up and catching whichever is leaving first. Remember which one you caught though so you get on the right one to go back!
~~~ Overall ~~~
I'd say Suomenlinna is definitely worth a day's visit. Even if the museums don't interest you, it’s a very beautiful place and is listed as a world heritage site. Go with friends or family and take it slowly. There's a lot there. Don't expect to see everything, just decide what you want to look at and enjoy it. If you don't go in all the museums, it's a pretty cheap trip and you're getting a good day out for your money.
If you have reduced mobility, you might struggle a bit on some of the paths and probably won't be able to go inside the tunnels. There are some old roads that are cobbled which might be a bit difficult to walk on. And you will have to walk! If you expect to get round any of the sights of the islands, you will have to use your feet. So if you use a wheelchair or a walking stick, this might not be the best place for you to visit.
We saw it in summer when the weather was gorgeous and sunny. On a nice day, I'd definitely recommend sunblock. However, the islands are still a recommended tourist destination in winter. Apparently, they're very beautiful in the snow and ice. And the museums are open all year round, so you should find it a good place to visit whatever time of year you're in Helsinki.
Just remember to pick up some fresh fish from the harbour market on your way home!
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