Brighton is a great place to eat out. The availability of different kinds of restaurant both in type of cuisine and affordability is almost limitless. From Korean to South American or Lebanese most types of cuisines are represented. Another area where Brighton is very well catered for is that of Vegetarian/Vegan cuisine. Those of us who live down here have a great choice and ‘Terre A Terre’ set just outside the famous Brighton lanes, is one of the very best not only in the town but in the country as a whole.
LOCATION, LOCATION…
‘Terre a Terre’ started out in very small premises on the street leading to Brighton bus and coach station. In those days I’m talking almost 10+ years ago it was a well kept local secret but soon enough it’s reputation for inventive high quality vegetarian food that appealed to veggies and non veggies alike spread and it’s success forced the restaurant to physically spread with it. It wasn’t long before they had exhausted the cramped surrounding and that a new larger restaurant was opened on 71 East Street right in the centre of historic Regency Brighton.
The new premises are a vast improvement. The locale feels very roomy (two dining rooms around a central bar area) and airy, the décor very minimalist and modern in style. This is complemented by an antique stripped and varnished wooden floor and large glass doors at the very back of the dining area that in the summer open up into a garden area where more seating space is available.
The furnishing are of good quality both functional and attractive although the tables could be slightly larger when faced with some of the dishes and varied accompaniment that are presented during the meal. I guess the popularity of the place lead to the most cost effective use of space.
During the
day the main eating area is infused with plenty of natural light and in the evenings the subdued spot lighting complemented by small fragrant candles on the tables and the cool colour (shades of Terracotta, Cream and Burnt Siena) scheme give a very warm comfortable relaxed ambience to the place.
If the weather is up to it a filling meal can be walked off along the seafront only a few minutes away.
FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD…
If your idea of veggie food is a green salad and an omelette then ‘Terre A Terre’ will be a real culture shock!
Heavily influenced (but not exclusively) by both Mediterranean and North African fusion cuisine the dishes on offer provide extraordinary variety.
The menu changes two/three times a year trying to incorporate seasonal availability of ingredients etc. On our last visit we plumped for the selection of starters a Tapas style large dish for two (£14 but more than enough for two hungry souls!) including a taster of many of the things on the menu. This can include many of the following depending when visit. Try such delights as Zhuganoush “char-grilled aubergine sole with griddled minted halloumi and roasted red pepper topped off with a poached egg”, hoisin tofu, roast red pepper with lemon doused leaves, succulent green and black olives, caper berries, savoury soba noodles with tofu, tangy anti pasti, kalamata coka with minted feta and rocket pesto, fresh rocket salad, soy steeped deep fried hoi sin sesame toasted tofu, sherry and balsamic vinegar coated sun-dried tomatoes marinated in chilli oil and a hint of lemon, wild mushroom pate, couscous, herb infused feta cheese bites and deep fried lavash tandoor bread crisps, drenched deep fried chick pea and sesame socca (Provencal pancake) served with charred and marinated artichoke, aubergine, capsicum, courgette and onion with muhammara puree …you get the idea!
Most of the tasters in the mixed starter dish can be ordered as individual starters or as a main and they are usually served with tasty focaccia or other choices of bread with wholemeal and crusty white.
Portions are generous and can be accompanied by a variety of pickles sauces, dressing and breads. The particular selection of starters that we had was so filling that next a difficult decision had to be made, you can either go for a main course risking to be too full to sample the delicious deserts.
If you’re feeling ravenous the substantial main courses can include ‘Twice Baked Camembert Soufflé’ or currently the exquisitely described ‘Buttered Squeak and Shropshire Sausage’- “Caerphilly and Wenesleydale, grain mustard and thyme croquets, beautifully crisped coated in grated focaccia crumbs, sitting on buttered squeaked leaves, truffled potato and celeriac puree and red onion reduction in a Cabernet sauce topped with a cap of flash fried woven strawed celeriac”.
However delicious the main courses are it would be a mistake to miss out on the deserts. ‘Terre A Terre’ are famous for their delicious offerings at the end of the meal. My advice would be to indulge yourself with the home-made Rum Truffles, Mexican style vodka cherry/chocolate and cinnamon churros or Victoria panini dessert – “citrus cheesecake sandwiched between hazelnut tuilles served with kumel spiced pickled plumes”, Figgie Feuille and Candied Coriander Leaf – “spiced figs and soft cheese enhanced by a pistachio emulsion and crecy cardamom syrup and served with chestnut honey ice cream” or how about Knickerboka Freddo, “a refreshing combination of goosebery crumble with clotted ice cream, elderflower syrup and cobnut toffee crisp”… Yum! I had the Truffles…delicious!
The food is always perfectly presented visually exciting, combining and blending vibrant colours and aromatic smells and you know that all the food has been lovingly prepared.
The menu is well laid out and contains a good amount of detail about the food and drinks if any questions remains and you don’t know your Kumel from your Churros then the staff seem to be knowledgeable about the different recipes and the provenance of the ingredients however if they can’t answer a query they will be quite happy to find out from the chef.
On the night we were there a couple on the table next to us had some very specific dietary requirement and the serving staff were excellent in indicating what dishes on the menu were appropriate and dealt very courteously with them even though it was a particularly busy time. In general the service is excellent.
The owners of the restaurant, Phillip Taylor and Amanda Powley, take their business very seriously and are totally committed to the providing the very best Vegetarian and Vegan food, they ensure that the ingredients where possible are organic/non-genetically modified and are sources locally or by Fair Trade. They have shown their environmental credentials by recently converted the restaurant to environmentally responsible electricity provided by Ecotricity, Europe's first and largest 'green' electricity company. This change means that the restaurant saves on over 116 tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions each year at no extra cost.
The environmentally responsible policy extends to the drinks list too, which includes a good selection of organic, vegetarian, vegan and biodynamic wines (both new world and old world), as well as organic beers and ciders. Wine price ranges from £12-£25 per bottle.
PRICE, FACILITIES AND SO ON…
Considering the quality of the food and the fact that ‘Terre A Terre’ features in ‘The Good Food Guide’ and ‘The Red Guide’ from Michelin as well as having won numerous awards- “second place in the 2003 Observer Food Awards for Best Restaurant”- the prices are reasonable a filling two/three course meal with drinks will probably set you back between £30-£40 per person (starters £5, mains £11, deserts £5). All major credit cards are accepted.
They have disabled access and do cater very well for kids. A kid’s menu is available if asked for and for the really young they provide organic baby food free of charge as well as wipes etc for baby changing. The staff also gives you the impression that children are welcome quite refreshing for a British restaurant!
The restaurant gets very busy in the evening and also has a thriving lunchtime clientele especially on Sundays so booking a table is essential, at least few days before you plan to go. Opening times are Mon 6pm-10.30pm, Tue-Sun 12pm-10.30pm and since it is in the centre of town it has good bus and taxi links although the train station is a fair walk away.
‘Terre A Terre’ is quite simply the best vegetarian restaurant I’ve been too indeed it is one of the best restaurants I’ve been too. If you want to show a committed carnivore what veggie cooking can really be about this is the perfect place to go. ‘Terre A Terre’ provides a lively, classy but informal setting it is ideal for a romantic meal or for a big celebratory dinner.
For more information contact ‘Terre A Terre’ direct…
Telephone: 01273 729051 (Fax: 01273 327561) Email: mail@terreaterre.co.uk Website: www.terreaterre.co.uk (the website is currently under construction)
I love this restaurant and think it is a real shame there isn't a branch in London - also we need a Wai Kika Moo Kai - Brighton is really great for veggies. Anyway wonderful review, have now decided next time I visit my folks in Brighton I am going back to Terre a Terre! Triciax
jayne30165 17.10.2005 02:15
Great review, although I'm not sure I should be thanking you as after reading your mouth-watering descriptions of the dishes, I'm now ravenous! Bang goes my diet......... ;)
Ali1000 05.01.2005 23:01
You can't go wrong with this place. Great review. :-)
NH Hotels, the hotel chain leader in Europe, with more than 300 hotels in 20 countries in Europe, Latin America and Africa. Enter into our web site and find the best available tariff at all times