The Alhambra, Granada > Reviews (5)

Did you know more photos are taken inside the walls of the Alhambra than in any other monument on earth?*

*Entirely fabricated factoid.

This isn't necessarily true, but it certainly feels like it. From afar, Granada's - and arguably Spain's - most treasured and esteemed jewel begs to be captured on film; inside, it's innumerable times as beguiling. Built by the Moors in the 13th century and retaken by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492, the complex is a stunning, striking mass of grand, imposing architecture and fine Islamic detail, forming an entrancing whole.

Viewed from a distance, the Alhambra's most prominent structure is the Alcazaba, a castle complex of imposing angular towers. The reddish walls, intensified by the dying sun and standing aloft in contrast with the snow-capped Sierra Nevada to the south, give evidence to the site's name; Alhambra being "The Amber One" or "Red Fortress". Inside the complex, a variety of structures from different periods and religious backgrounds co-exist in a pleasing, intoxicating medley of architectural ingenuity and aesthetic delight, while just outside, the gardens of the Generalife rise up away from the city walls.

~*"~ Entry times & Tickets ~*"~

Tickets for a six-hour visit cost Euro13 if booked in advance - something which is not mandatory, although the strength of the recommendation to do so is inversely proportional to the amount one enjoys standing in long queues before seven in the morning. Around 6,000 tickets are available per day, with 2,000 of these kept back for sale at the ticket office in the morning - you'll save a Euro if you buy on the day, but purchasing in advance gives you the chance to choose the half-hour slot in which you enter the Palacio de Nazaries, the Alhambra's greatest (and accordingly, most popular) treasure. You can reserve tickets through La Caixa bank (www.servicaixa.com), where you'll also choose a morning (8:30-14:00) or afternoon (14:00-20:00) visit.

Collecting tickets at the Alhambra is easy. Climb the lengthy slope from Plaza Nueva in the town, through the impressive Puerta de las Granadas (Gate of Pomegranates) to the ticket office, pass the gift shop and insert the card you paid with into one of the machines to print off your tickets. If you arrive forty-five minutes or so before you're due to enter, you'll avoid being delayed by queues. There are plenty of cafes and amenities up here.

~*"~ The Generalife ~*"~

Overlooked by the Palacio de Generalife, these gardens (literally, "the Architect's Gardens") are spread out over several tiers, with the most modern restorations at the lower reaches. There are two entrances to the Alhambra complex; take the one by the ticket office and you'll enter into these gardens, with the walled citadel across a bridge to your left. The lowest level of the Generalife unfolds like a scene from Alice in Wonderland, all ruler-straight hedges reaching above your head and cut-out doorways framing your destination and the city below.

Above this initial and most sizeable area, the Palacio de Generalife contains older reflections of the site's past (check what time you need to be at the Palacio de Nazaries before entering, as you can only do some once per visit - leave half an hour or so at least).

Pass through the Patio de la Acequia, with its central water channel and myriad fountains and swing around to the right to enter the Jardin de la Sultana, where beneath the 700 year-old cypress tree (now on its last roots), the Sultan's favourite concubine Zoraya was reputed to flirt none too subtly with the head of a prominent family. More of the consequences of this later ...

Keep heading upwards, and take the Escalera de Agua (Water Stairs) to the top where a series of carved busts survey Granada from a shaded terrace. Cool water runs gurgling down the banisters and pools on the landings as you climb - from here, descend a couple of tiers and take the long, leafy walkway back around to the entrance. Depending on your allotted time and preferences, the Generalife can make an ideal start or culmination to an Alhambra visit.

~*"~ The Alhambra ~*"~

Once you've left the Generalife gardens, head through the Medina towards the centre of the Alhambra complex, making sure you look back for some astounding views of the Sierra Nevada's snowy peaks (which keep their white covering right through into May). Pass through a gateway into a courtyard with a couple of hotels and an old set of baths. Continuing on, what might be considered the central plaza is ahead. On one side, the Renaissance Palacio de Carlos V looks rather out of place with its ornate carvings and flowing, heavily-worked curves. Against the strong, angular lines of the rest of the site, it almost looks slightly gaudy. Inside a couple of museums and circular courtyard are worth a look.

To the north of this clearing, the entrance to the Palacios de Nazaries (Nazrid Palaces) will be marked by a substantial queue every half-hour. You must enter at the time marked on your ticket, although once you're in, you can marvel at its many wonders as long as you wish. Although it appears a little over-officious, this system seems to work pretty well - the Palace is utterly beautiful inside, but fairly confined space-wise, so the staggering of visitors helps control the flow somewhat. The earlier you book, the more choice you'll have as to when you enter. Each room seems to hold a new "wow" factor, and impresses on both the large scale, with some wondrous architecture and the small; the carvings, inscriptions and decorations are quite staggering in their skill and complexity. Beautiful carved wooden ceilings, marble pillars, intricately-worked archways and multicoloured tiling exhibit what is said to be the finest collection of Islamic structures on the continent. Sadly, the much-loved centrepiece, the Patio de los Leones (Lion Courtyard) was being restored as of April 2010, although even without the fountain at its centre, the majesty of the space is self-evident.

To the southern side of this patio, a smaller room is significant for the dark stains across the floor that are said to be the blood of the family whose patriarch was found to be engaging the affections of the aforementioned Zoraya, most lovely of the Sultan's harem.

As you leave the complex, you emerge into the Jardines del Partal (Partal Gardens), a series of terraced gardens whose Palacio is the oldest surviving structure within the walls. The final major complex of note in this area is the Alcazaba - the towers offer some dazzling panoramic views of Granada, although little else remains within the buildings. Pass through the remains of the prisons and ascend the Torre de la Vela for superlative vistas across the city and region.

~*"~ Beauty and Balance ~*"~

I could throw a thousand adjectives at the Alhambra without managing to convey quite how stunning and striking the site is (and probably have done above), but it is perhaps best expressed as having both astounding beauty and perfect balance. Throughout the complex, inimitable examples demonstrate the first, but it also all manages to come together as a captivating whole. Overlooking the attractive city of Granada, surrounded by woodland, backed by mountains and scented with rich blossom, the Alhambra is more than the sum of its parts. In a region - Andalucía - lit up by countless wonderful examples of the area's turbulent, multi-layered past, this has to be the ultimate exposition of the Moorish influence on Southern Spain. Take your camera charger. In fact, take five cameras, and you might just be able to capture a whisper of the place's charm.