Things to thank the world for No. 4: Buena Vista Social Club! If you haven't seen them... Do! ...
Things to thank the world for No. 4: Buena Vista Social Club! If you haven't seen them... Do!
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Sometimes one's perceptions of a place are shattered…and listening to the wave-lap being interrupted by cat-tracked vehicles at some unearthly hour was one of the delights Southwold had in store for us. Lying in bed listening to groynes being pile-driven wasn't quite the peaceful experience anticipated. But then, I'm biased - I don't live in Southwold and I believe they are wasting their time. Managed retreat will eventually be the only option. We cannot beat the sea.
In the meantime, I can understand the point of view of the locals who (a) want their beach, their homes, their town, protected and (b) feel that - hey it's early in the year, please work every hour there is to get this done before the main season hits.
On the other side of the coin, perceptions were more positively disintegrated by an evening at The Blue Lighthouse.
A little context is probably needed at this point, at least for those who have never heard of Southwold. Nestling on what is almost an island on the north Suffolk coast, bounded by the river Blyth, the sea and Buss Creek, with only one road in and one road out Southwold is one of those towns that has managed to retain its charm without becoming "twee". Several devastating fires throughout its history have resulted in its most recent rebuilding - oh three or so hundred years ago - being based on a plan to provide natural fire-breaks. Wide streets. Open greens. The place wears its age with the comfort of wealth. Many of the houses are grand. Even the old surviving fisher cottages have clearly moved up-market, yet somehow without the pretentiousness that
is evident elsewhere. The 'Sailors Reading Room' which so entranced W G Sebald, is still there. The pier has been refurbished. The High Street & its environs have a Somerfield and a Co-op, and the odd franchise or chain might ring a bell…but mostly the small centre is packed with small single-commodity shops…think Sunday-evening-1950s drama. Streets of that kind. There is an 'electric theatre', art galleries, craft exhibitions.
But this doesn't mean the place is gentrified in the extreme. On the outskirts there are less picturesque social housing developments, along the coast is a caravan park.
The harbour is proud to call itself "working" - and walking through in the early evening when the day-trippers have gone and only the boat owners lurk around the boats and the sheds and the chandlery gives you a new take on the word 'charm'. This isn't pretty. But it's enticing. It's also another story.
I tell you all of this because to understand the attraction of The Blue Lighthouse, you have to see it in context.
In our terms the context was: two previous evenings dining in traditional pubs, one of which was great, and one which…well…wasn't.
So: to the Lighthouse.
The Blue Lighthouse is located on the High Street. It styles itself a Brasserie, and the sign on the door says food until 9.30, drinks until late.
Inside the décor is modern, blonde wood, stylised murals of local landmarks. It is decidedly family-friendly (baby-changing facilities provided), child-friendly menus. Al fresco seating at rear is in a 'yard' rather than garden, but none-the-less appealing I suspect on a summer's day. On the evening we visited there were three parties with small children, all of whom were impeccably behaved…indeed one of whom delighted me by a disgusted look thrown in the direction of a similar-aged individual (i.e. about 6yrs) who was beginning to get a little excited. It appeared to have the desired effect.
The atmosphere is definitely relaxed. There is something about the stylishness of the place that tempts you to want to dress up. It had been the plan…but then on a whim we'd decided to walk down to the Harbour for a drink first and so ended up wandering in unwashed & dressed in day-on walking kit - not an eyebrow was raised. There is no 'are you ready to order' pressure. You find a free table and order at the bar. We took drinks and then time to ponder the menu.
This was where it got interesting. Sometimes you find an extensive menu and somehow don't really fancy anything…at the Lighthouse, it was relatively short….and I wanted to try it all. Meat, fish, fowl, vegetarian…all the bases were succinctly enticingly covered.
We skipped the starters - a reasonably selection of variations on the usual suspects - priced at between £2 & £4. I was tempted to share one of the fishy variations…but we restrained.
On to the main event. Mmmmm! and 'mmm yes, this is good' and similar comments came unbidden. My friend had ordered a grilled tuna served with garlic diced potatoes and salad…only to be told that they hadn't been able to get tuna of late. Before the disappointment could register, however, the staff-member continued "so the alternative we've managed to source is Barramundi. It's another white fish, not too dissimilar, from the same waters, cooked pretty much the same way, would you like to try that?" What a refreshing change from 'sorry it's off!'. The Barramundi turned out to be 'really good'.
My chicken in honey-mustard glaze was…mmm, stunning. Seriously good. Perfect. The chicken breast sauced with the remains of the marinade was served with a sufficiency of lightly spiced potato wedges, a small glass of coleslaw and a 'mixed salad' of leaves, cucumber, onion but also grapes, orange and melon which worked far better than I'd have anticipated.
Portion sizes were finely judged. The last potato having me mopping up the last of the sauce, but craving no more.
I finished by nibbling the last of the fruit and declining dessert on the grounds of not wanting to ruin a perfect experience. After a suitable interval…my companion partook of a blackcurrant & orange sorbet (two scoops of orange to one of blackcurrant), served with a generous garnish of more fresh fruit. The orange was refreshing, the blackcurrant a little sweet for my taste.
Cost: with bar drinks (a pint of Adnams Broadside, two glasses of dry white wine, and a coffee), two main courses, one dessert and a bottle of white Bordeaux (@£13 a mid-range bottle), the total bill came to £49.85.
Staff were unobtrusive throughout, were not fazed by our decision to switch tables (having decided ours had a wobble and the one adjacent having become free), smilingly helpful. By the time we left, there were one or two couples, a couple of lone visitors sitting at the bar chatting to the staff, and the completely relaxed atmosphere was intact. Throughout the evening music had been played quietly in the background…it felt appropriate at the time, and has now slipped my mind, which proves it did its job of adding to the ambience without intruding upon it.
If you find yourself in Southwold…find time to go to the Lighthouse. Ambience, décor, service can all ruin a good meal…but they cannot make one. Here they don't…they simply support it. Whatever else I loved about this place, the real point is that the food was superb. It was interestingly contrived, cooked to order, attractively presented…and tasted devine.
Barramundi is lovely, I certainly prefer it to tuna.
Coloneljohn 23.04.2006 12:13
Sounds like a good place to visit. John
snowbunni 22.04.2006 09:58
Beautiful review. We don't live far from Southwold, and I've not been been to the Blue Lighthouse before, but having read this, am tempted to investigate this afternoon! x
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