The frost was thick on the ground, I was wandering down an absolutely freezing York Place at about dinner time and I was thinking. Wait around in the cold for a crowded bus, risk getting to my friends’ home too soon and hang around there as well and risk freezing? I tried to distract myself with other thoughts. What shall I try and tempt the readers at Ciao with next? The better distraction came in the form of the cosy looking pub on the corner of the street. Have a pint in the warmth, maybe a bite to eat, catch the later bus and arrive at a time when my friends were sure to be at home.
So, I walked into the reading room of Conan Doyle.
No football colours. I guess he wasn’t a sports fan, either that or the location of the pub – not very far away from where Hibs play and not that far away from Hearts play - has led to off the field confrontations before.
The steep
flight of stairs that greet you has you push open the door should serve to keep out the very-drunks as well, another bonus. I bet they’ve helped the very-drunks exit the pub at speed as well, always good for a laugh, well, unless its you.
As you walk into the pub you’ll have a simple choice; turn right and sit amongst comfortable tables and chairs and in view of the TV or turn left and sit amongst comfortable tables, sofas and chairs as well as being by the bar. Needless to say, I turned to the left and sat myself down by the bar. A pint of Cafferys in the warmth, lovely and it still took me until one of the barmaids walked by with a tray of food to twig as what to write about on Ciao.
I’ve mentioned the TV and that’s all I really need to say on that matter. I feel the Zombie Box attached to the top corner on one side of the room was a reluctant concession to the twenty-first century and perhaps to a few of the regulars as well. I would be just as happy to have it removed (and thrown down those dangerous stairs at the front of the pub).
The rest of the pub has a wonderful Sherlock Holmes feel to it and it manages this without resorting to annoying trivia and cheap souvenirs plastered over the walls. The décor is red and gold with varnished rich woods. It would not be impossible that the pub has changed very little in all these years. There is something of a Tardis effect in place as well. It looks small from the outside but once you get into the place and look around there is a surprisingly large amount of good-sized tables, my only gripe would be that the furniture could do with being a little more spaced out.
Ah yes, the bar. The bar does well. Don’t expect a massive range of drinks or food here. If you have a party of twenty dizzy secretaries then you would be better off exploring just a few more blocks and trying to get passed the bouncers at one of the super-pubs: The Dome or The Standing Order. There is about six taps to select from with extra cans in the coolers behind the bar as well as good choice of spirits. Whisky, the atmosphere of the bar murmurs whisky to you (It would probably whisper pipe smoking and opium at you to if you let the whole Holmes/Doyle thing to get to you) and fortunately they also stock a good collection of whiskies.
The kitchens must be down stairs. Piping hot food arrives in those hotel-style mini elevators and then there is only a short distance for the barmaids to carry your food. The fellow who came in beside me was pleased to discover that his fat steak was stilling sizzling when it arrived on his table surrounded by an army of chips. Bar food always carries a certain degree of hit-or-miss luck with it, there will always be some dishes that they know and like to cook and there will be some which are just there to fill up the menu. The Conan Doyle does pub food; if you’re hungry then you’ll find something to eat, the Conan Doyle is not one of those pubs-which-are-also-restaurants. The menu boasts a half dozen, or so, food stuffs to choose from, from steaks to toasties. I didn’t like the look of the pie though. As I said, hit or miss.
I can’t fault the service, swift and with a smile. It isn’t the sort of place where the barmaids rush around pretending to be busy. They can’t duck into the kitchens to hide.
I can’t fault the price either. The pub is in the very heart of the city, just a few minutes walk from Princes Street, is surrounded by businesses and nightclubs. If they wanted to charge extortionate sums of money for drinks then they could get away with it. That said, it isn’t cheap. Edinburgh booze costs.
What about the people there? Ah, well, they seemed to be a mixed crowd. As I have said, the pub is in the middle of a cosmopolitan area and this is reflected in the people who turn up for a pint or two. Expect it to vary from day to day. It only takes one gaggle of people to turn up and then the pub will be theirs. Still, that’s not always a bad thing. Diversity is good.
Oh yes, the name of the pub is inspired by its proximity to where the famous author was born. This is also good but it also attracts the occasional tourist.
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