The Lake District (England)

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Fresh air, rainbows and dead sheep

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5 Feb 24th, 2006 

18 Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful

Advantages:
Great scenery,quality food and friendly folk

Disadvantages:
Can be boring for city slickers who hate walking

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Sightseeing

Shopping

Nightlife

Ease of getting around

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starray

About me:

Hello! Have been very busy and trying to read as many reviews as I can. Thanks so much if you hav...

Member since:20.11.2005

Reviews:6

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My husband and I were lucky enough to win a pair of First Class Virgin Rail Tickets recently and our initial choice was Yorkshire but there didn't seem to be an easy route to get there via Virgin so we chose to go to the Lake District instead. Considering that we've both visited the Lake District twice 10 to 15 years ago, we weren't expecting many surprises. This was going to be a short overnight break for us city-dwellers looking for a breath of fresh air.

The journey took about three hours from London Euston and we alighted at Oxenholme station. A £3.50 national rail ticket and a thirty minute ride got us from Oxenholme to Windermere. A fifteen minute walk later found us at St John's Lodge B+B which we had booked online through laterooms.com.

<Accommodation>
The room was nothing spectacular, but it was cosy and clean and was at the top of the lodge, so it had a neat little sloping roof. Mind you, it was a clear glass shower right next to the double bed, so no privacy there; but since we're married anyway, it made no difference to us! There was a notice though, which stated that showers were not to be taken after 11pm. If you like having the regular midnight shower, that might prove a problem but it worked out alright for us.

The room cost us £45.00 for a night's stay and if we had been savvy and organised and booked our tickets to return a day later, we could have had 2 nights stay for the price of one as that is the current St John's Lodge promotion. But that didn't really matter - we were pleased to have found a B+B exclusively for non-smokers and which had a T.V. with crystal clear reception (albeit with only 4 channels)

What ultimately makes this B+B stand out is the lovely landlady Sue who was friendly and warm, and the large variety of cooked breakfast options available - 20 in total, including vegetarian/vegan. I had an oatmeal pancake filled with mushrooms, tomatoes and ham, while my husband had Cumberland sausage, bacon and eggs. I found the pancake a tad too salty for my taste but then again, I've never been one for cooked breakfasts anyway. I usually just eat boxes of raisins for breakfast! There was also a selection of cereal, juice, fresh fruit salad and organic coffees and teas available.


Our B+B was approximately 10 minutes' walk away from the town centre which has a quaint village feel about it. There were a few droolicious chocolate shops which sold handmade chocolates, the traditional Kendal mint cakes and hand-made fudge, but I managed to resist temptation. This is also the home of Peter Rabbit and friends and the world of Beatrix Potter - but we skipped all the touristy stuff in favour of a light meal at a great little restaurant called Gibby's which served fantastic haddock and chips, tea and 2 slices of toast for a bargain £4.80. The batter was crisp and the fish was fresh, the serving of chips was generous and the peas were sweet and not over-cooked. Before I forget, there is also an English pub called the Hole in't Wall behind St Martin's Church, with real log fires and real ales and a real deer's head on the wall which you must visit it you like a taste of traditional England.

<Lake Windermere>
Look to the rainbow and follow it and you will find the lake at Bowness Bay. We saw four rainbows on Lake Windermere in the day and a half we were there. Maybe it was the light showers alternating with bright sunshine that created the beautiful mirages, but like Wordsworth, my heart leapt up when I beheld them! Coming from the dreary grey of London smog, this closeness to nature was hugely welcome. Huge and sometimes rather inquisitive swans grace the lake's edge and even though my husband warned me how aggressive they could be (one of the swans started pecking at my scarf), I braved the photo opportunity with my new feathered friends.

If you're only intending a short trip like us, a lake cruise would be a good option. It costs £6.95 for a return trip by ferry to Ambleside from Windermere. The trip lasts about 30 minutes either way. I went on the top deck midway through the ride and was greeted by chilly winds, fantastic views and also a gaggle of smokers who were puffing away to their hearts content! The cigarette smoke and cold breeze soon chased me back down below deck.


In Ambleside there is a café called "The Apple Pie" which serves the most delicious apple pie in Ambleside. It wasn't a big portion for about £3.00, but it came with 2 scoops of creamy vanilla ice-cream and my hubby and I were sharing or rather, fighting over it. If you visit Ambleside, be sure to try this delightful dish. I also had a chocolate éclair, which was ok, and a huge glass of home-made lemonade (you can really taste the difference) and to cap it, my husband bought a take-away Cumberland sausage pie for £2.20. (As you can see by now, he is rather fond of sausage).

With heavy stomachs and lighter pockets, we then took a walk across a field which led to a path which led towards the snow-capped hills. The winter trees overlook a little stone bridge and a babbling brook which makes a perfect photo. We had a sweet little kiss on the bridge and then moved on. We weren't equipped that day to trek all the way to the top, but promised to ourselves that we would return another time with friends to make that journey. Along the beaten path to the top, we were greeted by joggers and friendly country folk, who actually said "hello!", and people walking their dogs. We stopped to rest and munch on Cumberland sausage pie and saw two straggly sheep munching nearby in a small field. In the field was a sheep's skeleton. I've never seen a sheep's skeleton before, and it's quite a ghastly sight, but also a reminder that even in the midst of beauty, death still exists. Trigger-happy me was just about to take a photo of the poor dead baa-baa, but got ticked off by my hubby who pronounced it "macabre".

A quick trip back and we were in Windermere again and topped off our culinary journey with scampi and chips and steak and ale pie which was phenomenal. That meal set us back by £16.00 which was reasonable considering the quality of the food.

All in all, we had some fabulous food in the Lake District and enjoyed being close to nature again. Even a short trip like this can do loads to refresh the soul.

--- Corinne :-) ---

Useful Information -

Gibby's Restaurant
Royal Square,
Bowness-on-Windemere,
Windermere.
Cumbria.
LA23 3ED.

 

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Comments about this review »

bowker76 18.08.2006 17:35

The Lake District is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Its a shame you didn't get out of the Windermere area and see more of the real Lakes. Dead sheep are common place when walking on the fells, but you usually smell them first!

torr 08.03.2006 11:08

An interesting review. As one who first went to the lakes fifty years ago, my problem with Windermere/Ambleside these days is that, being easily accessible from the motorways, they get far too crowded for enjoyment of the scenery and rural ambience. The north-western lakes - Buttermere for example - are much less overrun, but even more boring for city slickers who hate walking! Duncan

sandyback75 24.02.2006 19:15

It's a very beautiful place but can be very bleak in the winter. Great review. :-) Jono.

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