The Royal Pavilion, Brighton

The Royal Pavilion sits comfortably in the heart of Brighton presiding over its surroundings like an elderly and eccentric uncle at a gathering in his honour. In unconventional attire, with a benign countenance and serene demeanour which belies it’s chequered past, it silently surveys the busy metropolis around. Brighton citizens and its many visitors mill around, some casting fond glances in its direction, others viewing the ‘inappropriate’ apparel ...
...the tales it can tell of its illustrious and notorious past combined with a respect for its longevity, having survived against all the odds.

*****HISTORY*****

Whatever one feels about Brighton’s premier landmark, nobody can deny that it and the person responsible for its construction are the two factors which have had the most impact on the development of modern Brighton. In the mid eighteenth century, Brighthelmstone ... more

The Royal Pavilion sits comfortably in the heart of Brighton presiding over its surroundings like an elderly and eccentric uncle at a gathering in his honour. In unconventional attire, with a benign countenance and serene demeanour which belies it’s chequered past, it silently surveys the busy metropolis around. Brighton citizens and its many visitors mill around, some casting fond glances in its direction, others viewing the ‘inappropriate’ apparel with mildly critical distaste but most feeling some interest in the tales it can tell of its illustrious and notorious past combined with a respect for its longevity, having survived against all the odds.

*****HISTORY*****

Whatever one feels about Brighton’s premier landmark, nobody can deny that it and the person responsible for its construction are the two factors which have had the most impact on the development of modern Brighton. In the mid eighteenth century, Brighthelmstone was little more than a fishing village occupying roughly the area now known as “The Lanes” but sea erosion had taken its toll and it was in a rough state.

In 1753 one Dr Russell of Lewes published an influential treatise on the benefits of seawater bathing and drinking. He directed patients to the nearest seaside location, Brighthelmstone and soon set up house and a treatment centre not far from the site now occupied the Pavilion, (now the Royal Albion Hotel). Soon the rich and famous were flocking in to take the waters and the ascent in Brighthelmstone’s fortunes began.

Prince George (son of the “ mad” George III, and affectionately now known to locals as Prinny) was advised to visit for his health in 1783 and 1784 and by 1786 was looking for a permanent residence in the area. He rented and later purchased a “superior” farmhouse which occupied part of the site the Pavilion does today. Over the next forty years or so, the farm house was rebuilt, extended and transformed in various stages into the building we now know.

Prinny became the Prince Regent in 1811 when his father, because of an illness affecting his mental faculties, could no longer carry out his duties as King. In 1820 at the age of 57, he succeeded to the throne, as George IV and reigned for 10 years. Prinny was a flamboyant character, a colourful dandy, extravagant and licentious. He entertained lavishly and frequently with great panache and gusto. His completely inappropriate behaviour made him the butt of many contemporary cartoonists! It is his character which is reflected in the unashamed opulence, eccentricity and ostentation of the Pavilion as we see it today.

With this Royal recognition, the popularity of Brighthelmstone amongst the “in crowd” soared. The Regency terraces, which had begun to spring up in the 1780s multiplied and spread further and further in each direction and, by the time the London to Brighton railway line arrived in 1840, the place was transformed into the fashionable resort of Brighton

Prinny was succeeded by his brother William IV who adapted parts of the Pavilion for his own use in the seven years’ of his reign. However, his successor, Queen Victoria developed an intense dislike of the place mainly because it was not sufficiently private and never visited after 1845. By 1850, stripped of its contents by the Queen, it was beginning to fall into disrepair and threatened with demolition. However, after much local petitioning, it was sold to the town for £53,000, the money going towards the creation of a new wing at Buckingham Palace.

There followed over a century during which the Pavilion enjoyed a much less exalted status as a municipal building, housing exhibitions meetings and other such functions. Some of the out buildings were demolished and others taken over for different uses e.g. the concert venue now known as “The Dome” which can be seen to the north-west of the Pavilion was built as the Royal stables ( lucky horses!)

In the First World War it was used as a military hospital, firstly housing wounded Indian soldiers and then soldiers who were recovering from loosing limbs. The South Gate was given by the Indian nation as a memorial to the Indian wounded and in thanks to the people of Brighton.

By the end of the Second World War, the building was in a state of disrepair and again threatened with demolition but saved by a very narrow Council majority in favour of its conservation. In the ‘forties a programme of interior restoration began and continued through to the ‘eighties when a £10 million exterior restoration was embarked upon. Despite an arson attack in 1975 which damaged the Music Room and hurricane damage in 1987, the project was completed in the ‘nineties. Much of the furniture and other effects were returned on permanent loan by successive monarchs including the present Queen. Today, whilst conservation is an ongoing concern, the Royal Pavilion has been completely and authentically restored and is very much as it was when Prinny realised his plans for it in the early 19th century

*****ARCHITECTURE*****

I make no apology for the excursion into history because it is the key to an understanding of the Pavilion. The original farmhouse was extended and transformed over a period of 35 years and enjoyed several reincarnations but it was the celebrated architect, John Nash, who between 1815 and 1823 translated Prinny’s whims into the building we see today so beautifully restored.

Before I lived in Brighton and attended as a visitor, I looked on the place as a completely inappropriate blot on the landscape but somewhat in tune with the rather brash and gaudy image the town had at that time. But, as the years have passed, I have grown to love it. In its perfect symmetry with its array Indian-inspired domes. cubes, minarets and spires and delicate stonework, carved with such intricacy that in parts it resembles lacework, it’s a picturesque, exotic but accessible gem in the heart of a busy metropolis

If you are lucky enough to see it illuminated at night particularly from the gardens (which are now a public park and thoroughfare where, quite often, a lone saxophonist will be found playing and adding to the atmosphere), you can’t help feeling the almost magical mysticism which emanates from this oriental edifice which some even compare to the Taj Mahal, (perhaps a little too over enthusiastically!).

*****THE INTERIOR*****

The Royal Pavilion is actually surprisingly small when compared to today’s royal residences. However what it lacks in size, it makes up for in the quality, vibrancy and eccentricity of the Chinese style décor and the variety of magnificent furniture and furnishings. I have visited many times over the years with a succession of visitors of all ages and find that, especially with children and older people, the compactness is a positive advantage. A visit doesn't las long enough for children to get bored get bored as they hunt for the gilded dragons and carved palm trees and the elderly do not have to tax themselves unduly and are grateful that the imitation bamboo staircases are not numerous or too steep!

***The Long Corridor***
From the octagonal entrance hall containing the admissions desk you pass into this area which is flanked at either end by mock bamboo stair cases but have no fear apparently these are actually fashioned in cast iron! It’s a cool oasis on days when the sun is shining because the only light comes from large painted glass panels above. However this does not dim the beauty of pink panels decorated with blue/silver trees and birds. Artificial light is provided when necessary, by a large central glass lamp bedecked with red tassels and several oriental looking painted lanterns. Here my children used to love counting the quaint 19th century clay figures of Chinese court officials (made in China!). which are scattered along the gallery amongst genuine bamboo and cane chairs. In case of argument there are 12!

***The Banqueting Room***
This is approached from the south end of the corridor and I always love to see the initial reaction of first time visitors as they enter from the dimness into this light and sumptuous room. It’s a feast of red and gold offset by a highly polished dark wood floor. Large windows (which today unfortunately only overlook the heavy traffic of the old Stein) are framed with rich red drapes lined with gold fringing. The walls are hung with a series of huge canvasses depicting Chinese domestic scenes. A table laid up for a dessert course stretches almost the entire length of the room, surrounded by red upholstered chairs.

Above is a richly decorated shallow dome with canopies at either end The huge central chandelier, apparently 30 ft high and weighing one ton, hangs down seeming suspended between the claws of a magnificent gilded dragon with outstretched wings whilst a number of lesser dragons support the lights on an outer ring. Four smaller chandeliers hang at the corners of the room. Eight floor standing lamps of blue Spode china, sporting ormulu dragons below tulip shaped glass lampshades (acting very much as today’s uplighters) stand along the walls .

***The Kitchen***
Passing along the west side of the Banqueting Room and through a room, which I would describe as a serving area but which is actually known as the Table Deckers’ Room, we enter the Kitchen and again visitors tend to be taken aback because this looks to be a fully equipped kitchen, light and airy and utilitarian. I can almost imagine Jamie Oliver not looking too out of place in this environment!

Amongst other period kitchen containers and utensils lining the shelves of huge wooden fitted dressers around the walls is a collection of 550 beaten copper utensils which were formerly in the Duke of Wellington’s official London residence, Apsley House. Realistic looking ingredients sit on tables in the centre of the room. Unfortunately younger children might seek the answers to some challenging questions when they see the meat carcases hanging on one wall. “But Mummy do we really eat pigs?”

Even here the decorative detail has not been completely forgotten as the ceiling is supported by four cast iron columns with painted copper palm leaves at the top of each, whilst several strategically placed decorative copper canopies have been designed to draw away heat, smells and steam.

The whole kitchen was very modern at the time it was built. Even it’s location next to the banqueting room was quite innovative and functional as the food was less likely to get cold in transportation. The large “ Smoke Jack “ spit was the Smeg or Neff equivalent of the day. Powered by a rotary vane in the chimney it was turned by hot rising from the fire. Today ten chickens roast on it but, I am sure, it would have accommodated an entire pig.

Here would be prepared the lavish feasts Prinny would delight in providing for his many guests. Such banquets would often feature some sixty dishes and older children may enjoy studying the menu for one such junket which is displayed here ( as long as they will still be satisfied with fish and chips for their dinner!). I can’t help wondering how the laced up ladies of the day managed to cope with even two courses

***The State Apartments***
Leaving the kitchen and travelling back north through the Banqueting Room again, we enter the state apartments consisting of three rooms, which run parallel to the Long Gallery and consist of the Banqueting Room Gallery , the Saloon and the Music Room Gallery.

The Gallery Rooms come almost as a relief being calmer than the breathtaking grandeur of the rooms they adjoin. Although gilding is still to be found, the white walls and more subdued drapes are of much less dramatic effect. The one small item of amusement to me in this area is Dolphin Couch in the Banqueting Room Gallery. Here we depart a moment from the chinoiserie as the couch is allegedly in the form of an Egyptian riverboat on crocodile feet, typical of furniture inspired by Nelson’s victory at the battle of the Nile. Today it seems rather bizarre.

Between the gallery Rooms we encounter the Saloon. Oval in shape with a circular painted domed ceiling from which is suspended a large but delicate chandelier, this room has a serene splendour. Huge mirrors in gilded frames deck the walls and are complemented by similar shaped panels bearing designs of intertwining leaves and flowers.

However, the gold dragons and twisting serpents and highly lacquered doors throughout the State Apartments remind me that there is more awe inspiring splendour to come.

***The Music Room***
When entering the Music Room, I always expect the attendant to approach asking me to remove my shoes for you immediately sink into a luxurious hand-knotted Axminster carpet which was specially commissioned as a replica of the original. The carpet is predominantly blue and heavily patterned with designs in red and gold. Once assured that I can walk on it, I am free to survey the rest of the room.

The only hint of the room’s original use is an ornate organ which was dates back to 1884. Apparently now in poor condition musically speaking, it enjoys the same state of decoration as the remainder of the room

Music was one of Prinny’s many passions and it was here that his own band would entertain guests as would some more celebrated musicians, such as the composer, Rossini. This room must have been the result of his wish to provide a setting which would do justice to such performances. From the guilt domed ceiling hang no less than nine lotus shaped chandeliers. All the walls are decorated with painted canvases in a rich red, inscibed with gold, depicting Chinese scenes. Painted dragon heads frame the top of the canvases whilst gilded serpents wrap themselves around the columns in between.

When my daughter first saw this room, she must have been about seven, and after she had stared in wonder for a while she decided, “It must be like one of the rooms in My Little Pony’s castle!”. I translated this as meaning she was mightily impressed!

***Other Rooms***
Having now covered the most ornate and impressive public rooms, I won’t go into such detail concerning the remaining areas open to the public. Whilst these are beautifully restored, the Chinese theme still predominating, they more practical and utilitarian living quarters being designed for comfort rather than display. In fact I always feel the tour is guided the wrong way round – the best should be saved until last. After the initial feast, the remainder will always be an anticlimax, however historically interesting.

The only remaining suite of rooms on the ground floor are The King’s Apartments designed by Nash during his final transformation of the Pavilion when the by now obese Prinny, suffering from gout and dropsy, found it too difficult to access the first floor. Here we find his bedroom dressing room and library. In a very recent development, an elaborate bed actually made for Prinny in 1828 and designed for his apartments at Windsor has been installed, being on permanent loan from The Queen

Upstairs, we can explore the Yellow Bow Rooms, designed for Prinny’s brothers, the Dukes of York (yes, the Grand old Duke of York of nursery rhyme fame, as I always like to remind visitors) and Clarence and the South Galleries which were used as breakfast rooms.

Last but not least are Queen Victoria’s apartments, used by her between 1837 and 1845. The Queen’s bedroom is strikingly decorated with hand–painted Chinese wallpaper, a reproduction of the original. There is also a maid’s room but what causes most wonderment is a water closet. On more than one occasion I have heard a younger visitor exclaim words to the effect, “Did the old Queen really wee in that?”. I am always tempted to reply. “ My dear, this is Brighton, I am sure any number of old queens have availed themselves of that convenience!”

***The Gift Shop***
The tour takes you out through the gift shop which can also be entered from outside. This is an Alladin’s cave for gifts and souvenirs with varied and high quality merchandise but I will avoid describing it in great detail just as I avoid lingering there for too long for fear of giving into temptation!

***REFRESHMENTS***

To round off the trip, I sometimes take tea (with homemade cakes or scones) in The Queen Adelaide Tearoom on the first floor where you can sit inside or out on a balcony over looking the gardens. This is quite a pleasant and very English experience. Lunch is also served there but I have never been early enough to sample that! More often, I will take myself and any visitors for a much stronger cuppa at the kiosk, with more than adequate outside tables and seating, in the Pavilion Gardens. But one is spoilt for choice as there are many pubs, bars, cafes and restaurants in the immediate vicinity.

***THE GARDENS***

Recently awarded status as a Green Flag Park, the Royal Pavilion Gardens are one of my favourite Brighton open air locations. In the heart of Brighton, the gardens, have been restored in recent years, following the design of John Nash which was typical of the Regency period when the fashionable formality of French gardens was replaced with a more natural style, with groupings of trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants. The plantings, which are all based on records of the actual plants used originally, are in irregular beds bordering winding paths and lanes with intervals between them allowing the visitor a varying succession of views.

It is a vibrant and lively place always busy with people using it as a short cut or stopping to gaze and laze. There is always something happening whether it be organised entertainment as in the May Festival and throughout the Summer months or informal buskers. Whatever the season, if the weather is reasonable , this is where I like to end my Pavilion visit, watching the world go by against the backdrop of the Royal Pavilion.

*****IN CONCLUSION*****

I have lost count of the number of times I have visited Brighton’s Royal Pavilion but I never tire of it. The splendour and quirkiness of the whole place, so wonderfully and authentically restored, are a constant source of amazement and pleasure. It can offer something of interest to all age groups and really fires the imagination, making it easy to transport yourself back to those days when it was Prinny’s Pleasure Dome – exotic, erotic, extravagant, lavish and licentious times when overindulgence in all life’s vices was the order of the day. The building reflects it all.

I have heard commentators remark that the image of Brighton, some say its spirit - sometimes brash and gaudy, hedonistic, rather naughty but very tolerant and open minded – is the result of natural progression from those times of lavish excess when the Pavilion was enjoying its hay day. Recently Brighton is being pushed more upmarket aiming for artistic and cultural status and recognition. I hope the Pavilion will always act as a reminder that, in essence, Brighton was, and I hope will always remain, that slightly wayward, larger than life, easy going, pleasure seeking place I have always known.

If you fancy a break from the sunny beach or shelter on a rainy afternoon or just a trip back in time, Brighton Pavilion is well worth a visit and can be enjoyed on many levels. Don’t go on my recommendation alone, it has currently been voted into third place on the UKTV History Series “ Britain’s Best” (Palaces Section). Recognition indeed!

*****INFORMATION BEFORE YOUR VISIT*****

***Travel***
The Pavilion is easy to find being on the Old Stein right at the end of the A23 (the main road into Brighton when coming from the direction of London) just before you reach the sea. However, if travelling to Brighton, I would seriously advise anybody to take public transport. The parking situation is horrendous, car parks expensive with very little street parking space available. The Royal Pavilion is just a few minutes walk from the coach station at Poole Valley and a pleasant ten minute stroll downhill from the train station (providing you find a helpful local to indicate the quickest route). Many local buses pass the spot!

***People with Disabilities***
Facilities include:-
- Wheelchair access to ground floor and a disabled toilet available. Free wheelchair hire is also available
- Tactile tours for blind and partially sighted by arrangement, Braille map and elevations of the building are available on request. Guide dogs are welcome.
-Signed tours and Sennheiser system for people with hearing difficulties are available by arrangement .

***Tours***
Guided tours are available for groups in English, French and German but must be booked in advance From April 2006, audio guides have been made available free of charge to the all visitors. Five audio tours are offered in English, French, German, a visually-impaired tour and a basic English tour ideal for foreign tourists and other visitors who wish to take the tour in a simplified version.

***Opening Times ***
The Pavilion is open every day apart from 25th and 26th December. Opening times from October to March are 10.00am-5.15pm (last tickets at 4.30pm) and from April to September 9.30am-5.45pm (last tickets at 5.00pm)

***Prices***
The pricing is complicated but details may be found at http://www.royalpavilion.org.uk/visitor_services/admission_charges.as

Further Information is available by telephone 01273 292820/2 or from the website http://www.royalpavilion.org.uk/default.asp where more photos and panoramic video clips of some of the rooms described may also be viewed. 

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