Unsurpassed Location, Period Features, Friendly Staff
Disadvantages:
No Air - conditioning
Recommend to potential buyers:
yes
Full review
When Captain Arthur Phillip sailed into Sydney harbour in January 1788, he was on the verge of establishing the farthest outpost the British Empire had ever seen. Having surveyed the shoreline, he quickly decided upon a suitable area for a settlement, and his crew and convict charges disembarked at a sheltered, rocky area, beneath the site of the present day Harbour Bridge. In time, this area would become known as 'The Rocks'. In the century that followed, the early settlement grew into a village, initially hemmed in on all sides by Sydney Cove, Campbells Cove and Walsh Bay. It outgrew these early constraints, however, eventually transforming itself into the massive metropolis we now know as Sydney. The frailty of the early settlement made hardiness and intrepidity essential, and many convicts died long before any prospect of emancipation. Those who survived, however, crafted the foundations upon which a great city was built, and many of their achievements are still very much in evidence to this day.
THE ROCKS: Sydney's earliest colonial buildings were constructed from a particular type of sandstone, which was dug out from beneath the area around the Rocks. In a city famous for its modern ambience and up-to-the-minute architecture, the Rocks remain a touching reminder of a more modest history. Visitors to the Rocks discover an unexpected oasis, a haven, in architectural terms, of Georgian discretion. After an extended period of dereliction, the area began to be restored in the Twentieth Century, and has now been returned to its former glory. Countless little cafés and galleries line a tangle of cobbled laneways, and its markets, eateries and historic buildings make it one of Sydney's most popular attractions. The Russell, a boutique hotel set in the very heart of the Rocks, epitomises the charm of this part of Old Sydney.
THE HOTEL: The Russell in its present form was built in 1887, beside the site of Australia's oldest hotel and licensed establishment, The Fortune of War, which dates back to 1801. The Russell was refurbished in the early 1990's, with a late Victorian aesthetic predominating throughout, in line with the building's age and history. Inside, clean and fresh colours are complemented with attractively restored, period features and furnishings. The hotel is quite small, with just 29 rooms (including some rather large suites as well as an appartment) and the simple ground floor reception area reflects this. A large bowl of jellybeans rests on the counter, and various brochures about local attractions are on display. Hotel guests breakfast in the Acacia restaurant, in front of the lobby.
According to Frommer's Guide, the Russell is "the cosiest place to stay in The Rocks, and perhaps in all of Sydney". Most guidebooks credit the Russell with just 3 stars, which strikes me as somewhat anomalous given, firstly, the quality of its accommodation, which is excellent, and secondly, the cost of its rooms, which are by no means cheap. However, the rooms are without mini-bars, for example, and they are served by large, colonial-style ceiling fans rather than air-conditioning. Furthermore, not all of the rooms are en-suite, with a couple sharing a single bathroom (but priced accordingly). Finally, there are no lifts and the long, curving wooden staircase would be very difficult to negotiate if you had mobility problems, or even a lot of luggage.
Of course, to Sydneysiders themselves, understandably enough, the hotel is far better known for its excellent restaurant, the Acacia, and for the pub beside it, than for the 'boutique' accommodation hidden away upstairs.
ROOMS: Each room at the Russell is entirely unique, decorated in its own style to complement its antique furnishings. All of the rooms are very attractively presented, however a couple are rather on the small side. Some of the rooms overlook the internal courtyard and Nurses Walk, whilst others have views across to Circular Quay. All rooms have AM/FM Alarm clocks, a safety deposit box, tea and coffee making facilities, fluffy bathrobes, hairdryers, iron and ironing board and cable television. The bathrooms are clean and modern, with granite bench tops, spacious baths and good quality towels. However, most of the bathrooms have no natural ventilation, and could probably prove rather stuffy in the summer.
FACILITIES: Other the Acacia restaurant, the Russell also offers an attractive lounge/bar on the first floor, opening out onto a balcony overlooking George Street, with views across to the quay. There is also a fairly large library in the lounge, with a good selection of books, many of them devoted to subjects of local interest. There is also an absolutely lovely rooftop garden, with wonderful views across to the city.
MY EXPERIENCE: I first stayed at the Russell in 1993, during a visit to Sydney with my mother. On the recommendation of friends, my mother had stayed at the hotel once before already, and had been quite taken with it. My own first impressions were excellent, too. Like all big cities, Sydney has no shortage of perfectly decent, standard-issue, big name chain hotels, many of which, in Sydney's case, are also set in enviable positions on the harbour. The Russell, however, was something special. Firstly, its location was superb. Inside, the hotel was a little reminiscent of a rather genteel Victorian Guest House. Our room, which overlooked George Street, was light-filled and spacious, but did strike me as being ever so slightly twee, albeit in a faithfully Victorian fashion! It was the middle of January, the height of the Australian summer, and temperatures were sweltering. We enjoyed our stay at the hotel, and certainly made the most of the location, but the room became uncomfortably hot in the evenings, forcing us to open the windows. The Rocks is home to several very popular bars and live venues, and as we were there over the weekend, the streets below remained very busy (and noisy) until almost 8 o'clock in the morning. I can still remember the shouting, drunken singing and the honking of taxis as revellers staggered out across the road below… At one point we heard someone being violently ill just outside & my mother scurried across to the window to investigate. 'Gosh! It's a sailor in uniform!' she said.
In April 2005, more than a decade after my original visit, I returned to the Russell Hotel. This time, I was there with my husband, and we only stayed for one night. It was very much as I remembered it, but a little slicker, a little less twee. It also seemed more expensive. I'm not really sure what the restaurant had been like before, as we never really dined there, but it certainly appears to be very bustling and fashionable now. As we hadn't made a booking in advance, we were really quite lucky to get a room, especially such a nice one, at short notice. This time, it was a room at the back of the building, overlooking the Rocks rather than George Street. The staff were all very friendly and accommodating, and I really felt I'd made a good choice. However, it was an unseasonably hot April, and as on my previous visit, the room was rather warm, uncomfortably so at night. We opened the windows, which certainly helped, and as the room was at the rear of the building there wasn't too much noise or traffic to contend with. We breakfasted in the restaurant downstairs, and the breakfast really was excellent, including some exceptionally fresh and delicious croissants. However, we may well have enjoyed a similar breakfast at a nearby café. Which brings me to…
LOCATION: The Russell is located on George Street, arguably Sydney's most important thoroughfare, which leads down towards the harbour from the busy CBD. It is situated immediately opposite the Museum Of Contemporary Art, a rather striking, geometric building, somewhat Speer-like in its design. Beyond this, there are views across to Circular Quay, where the ferries draw in from the harbour. It is difficult to imagine a better base from which to explore Sydney. The botanical gardens, the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House are all within easy walking distance. Circular Quay, with its ferries to Manly, Mosman, and the Zoo, amongst other destinations, is virtually on your doorstep, as of course, are The Rocks themselves. There are countless excellent restaurants in the immediate vicinity, and dozens of gorgeous little shops and boutiques in and around George St and the neighbouring laneways.
FINALLY: Would I stay at the Russell again? Possibly, yes, but certainly not during the Australian summer. The Russell's staff are friendly and welcoming, its restaurant is excellent, and receives many accolades in Sydney, its rooms are high-ceilinged and attractive, and the hotel's location is quite simply superb. The Russell is a very good little hotel; quaint, unique, and full of charm. The only pity is, it could be so much better.
Standard Double Room with en-suite Au $235.00 (£95.00)
