Many years ago (late 70s,early 80s) I lived and worked in Oxford and frequented a charming little pub called the Turf Tavern. In fact for several months I actually lived in rooms that the pub used to let (I don't know if they still let rooms). I had fond memories of this ancient and charming pub and so recently upon visiting Oxford with the family I took the opportunity to revisit to see if it was as I remembered.
To my delight it has not changed very much. They seem to have reworked the interior at the rear a bit so there seems to be a little more room but there is still not a lot of room inside.
The Turf Tavern is very well hidden but not a secret to anybody who knows Oxford. You can impress your companions with your knowledge of Oxford if you can find the Turf Tavern. If you are
in the area of Radcliffe square or Broad Street (the Sheldonian end) then you are close to it.
There are two possible routes in. The first is to proceed down New College Lane, under the Bridge of Sighs. On the left is a small alley called St Helen's Passage and if you proceed down here you will encounter the Turf. The other route is from Broad Street into Holywell Street where you will find Bath place on the right. You go down this lane (even though it looks as if it does not lead anywhere) and through a small alley on the left you will find the Turf Tavern. Neither passage indicates that the Turf Tavern can be found at the end of it so you just have to know where it is.
The Turf Tavern dates originally from the 13th century, but most of the present building is 16th century. The Turf is apparently leased from Merton College. It sits alongside the old city wall. The interior is quite small, with a low beamed ceiling. However, it is the only pub in central Oxford with a beer garden so there is some room for overflow and in winter they light braziers so you can still sit outside. I remember winter days sitting outside the Turf by the braziers when the interior was filled by the smell of a vat of mulled wine warming on the bar (which I understand they still do in winter).
Inside there is a small dark front room with a bar, very low ceilings and a bay window. At the rear there is another small room with small bar and two further rooms. Outside there are three separate garden areas with tables and huge umbrellas so they can be used in all weather. The gardens are enclosed by buildings all around and the walls of New College. The toilets are in a separate block from the main pub building.
Chalked signs in the gardens proclaim that it was in the Turf that Bill Clinton famously did not inhale cannabis. It was also in the Turf where Bob Hawke (ex Ozzie PM) entered the Guinness Book of Records for consuming a yard of ale in record time. It is also claimed that the Turf Tavern is the "obscure and low-beamed tavern up a court" visited by Jude Fawley in Hardy's Jude the Obscure. Also some scenes of Inspector Morse were filmed in the Turf.
A good selection of real ales are available. I plumped for a pint of Old Speckled Hen which was very tasty.
A good food menu is available and food is served all day. We had some Tiger Prawns and Combo Plate starters which were extremely tasty but I cannot vouch for any of the main courses.
Being college holidays seats could be found but my memory is that the pub gets very busy during term time as it is a favourite haunt for students. My only real complaint is that even though the pub was not very full the service was very slow but this is probably largely because the bar is so small you just cannot get any more people behind it. The service was however very friendly and once food was ordered it came quite quickly.
Also, with adequate outdoor seating it was fine for the children and there were several other families there. It also seemed to be popular with members of the clergy and academic types. However, even though it was a hot summers day there were not many tourists, presumably because they cannot find it.
Anybody who lives in Oxford already knows about the Turf Tavern as it is one of the oldest and best known pubs in the city. However, if you are visiting Oxford I highly recommend a visit to this charming old pub.
I think it's over-rated personally, but then I'm not an ale drinker. Outside exam time, not too bad I suppose. By the way, there is a chalk 'sign' (well, the word 'Turf' and an arrow) written on a brick at the end of St Helen's Passage... Oh, and the Goose has a beer garden and cheaper drinks, even if it isn't as picturesque.
Pozza 30.08.2003 23:15
What a fantastic sounding place! Never been to Oxford but it's somewhere I want to visit - now I'll have to find this place. There is a turf tavern where I grew up - my history teacher and 2 physics teachers used to get slaughtered there on a Friday dinner-time. Friday afternoon lessons were often hilarious! Paul.
babajane32 27.08.2003 13:09
This has bought memories back of days when I used to visit my brother (resident in Merton at the time) and he introduced me to this smashing watering hole.You're right about it being popular with the students in term time!!
cheers
jane xx
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Aug 26th, 2003
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