Feeling stressed? Need to get away? Then imagine unwinding on a sun-drenched tropical island. Picture yourself swimming in turquoise-coloured waters meandering through lush rain forests, or mingling with exotic indigenous tribes. Does such a paradise still exist on earth? Why yes! In the remote islands of Vanuatu.
Located roughly halfway between Australia and Fiji, Vanuatu is a Y-shaped Chain of about 80 islands in the southwest pacific. According to geologists, massive tectonic plates in the earth crust collided at this point to form lofty mountains that are mainly underwater. The peaks of the tallest of these rose above the ocean surface creating Vanuatu’s rugged islands. Today, the geologic crunch and grind triggers numerous earth tremors and fuel nine active volcanoes.
Daring sightseers can even view molten lava at close range.
Luxuriant rain forests abound in these islands. This is the realm of the mighty banyan tree, whose leafy crown can spread over vast areas. More than 150 species of orchids and 250 types of ferns adorn the thick undergrowth. Superb beaches and jagged cliffs frame pristine waters teeming with colourful fish and corals. Ecotourists travel from around the globe to swim alongside gentle but playful dugongs at Epi Island.
~Cannibals and Cargo Cults~
Europeanexplorers first arrived in Vanuatu in 1606. Fierce tribes inhabited the islands and cannibalism was widely practiced. At the time, forest of sandalwood, an aromatic wood prized in Asia, carpeted the landscape. Smelling profit, European traders systematically plundered the trees. They then turned their hands to blackbirding.
Blackbirding involved recruiting indigenous islanders to work on sugar and cotton plantations in Samoa, Fiji and Australia. In theory, workers signed freely for a term of three years. In practice, though, most were kidnapped. At the height of the trade, in the late 1800’s more than half the adult male population of some islands of Vanuatu worked abroad. Most never returned. Nearing 10,000 Pacific Islanders died in Australia alone, mostly from disease.
European diseases also wreaked havoc on islands of Vanuatu. The islanders had little or no resistance to measles, cholera, smallpox and other illnesses. “The common cold proved capable of wiping out whole populations” says one source.
Christendom’s missionaries arrived in Vanuatu in 1839 and were promptly invited to dinner – they were reportedly eaten as the main course! Many of their successors suffered the same grim fate. In time, however, Protestant and Catholic churches gained a firm foothold throughout the islands. Today over 80 percent of Vanuatus residents claim church membership. Even so, notes author Paul Raffeale, “many inhabitants still revere village sorcerers, who use spirit-possessed stones in magic rituals that can lure a new lover, fatten a pig or kill an enemy”.
Vanuatu is also home to one of the worlds most resilient cargo cults. During World War II, half a million U.S. solders passed through Vanuatu en route to Pacific battlefields. Islanders marvelled at the vast wealth or “cargo”, the soldiers bought with them. When the war ended, the Americans simply packed up and left. Millions of dollars of surplus equipment and supplies were dumped at sea. Religious groups, called cargo cults, built piers and landing strips and carried out drills with mock military equipment to entice the visitors back. Even today, hundred of villagers on Tanna Island still to pray to John Frum – “a ghostly American messiah” who, they claim, will one day return, bringing them an abundance of rich cargo.
~Cultural Diversity~
The languages and customs of this island nation are amazingly diverse. Says one guidebook: “Vanuatu claims the highest concentration of different languages per head of population of any country in the world”. At least 105 languages and numerous dialects are spoken throughout the archipelago. Bislama – the national lingua franca- English and French are all official languages.
Throughout the islands, though, one thing remains the same: Rituals govern every aspect of life. An ancient fertility rite on Pentecost Island even island even inspired the global craze of bungee jumping. Every year at the annual yam harvest, men and boys dive from wooden towers that are 20 to 30 meters high. Only long vines tied to their ankles save them from certain death. By brushing the ground with their heads, the land divers hope to “fertilize” the earth for the next years crop.
On Malekula Island it is only in recent years that some villages have opened up to outsiders. The tribes known as the Big Nambas and Small Nambas live here. Once fierce cannibals, they reportedly ate their last victim in 1974. Similary, their custom of tightly wrapping the heads of male babies to form “attractive” elongated skulls also ended years ago. Today the Nambas are exceptionally friendly and enjoy sharing their cultural heritage with visitors.
I have been to several places within the Vanuatu Islands whilst on a cruise when we lived in Australia. From memory Tanna Island is where they have an active volcano and the cruise went past at night as it have been active for over three years. Sods law would have it that the night we sailed past there was thick fog!
MALDIVEDIVER 19.01.2008 22:47
A very good and interesting Review - I still would not like to meet a Nambas... Mary
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Advantages: White sandy beaches, crystal clear ocean, coral reefs and colourful tropical fish, coconut palms, the list could go on forever. Disadvantages: humidity from hell in the wet season
Advantages: White sandy beaches, crystal clear ocean, coral reefs and colourful tropical fish, coconut palms, the list could go on forever. Disadvantages: humidity from hell in the wet season
Jul 31st, 2007
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