Now that the summer holidays are approaching slowly, I thought it is about time to tell you a little more about my hometown Varna – especially since Bulgaria is becoming more and more popular as a destination among British tourists!
Varna is the biggest port town on the Bulgarian Black Sea coast and the third biggest town in Bulgaria with 350,000 inhabitants approximately. Varna does not only host a big port and an international airport, it is also a university town: There is a School of Economics, a tourism university, a technical university, a Med-school and a newly founded free university.
Many of you might associate with Varna the beginning and the end of their vacation, since those who spend their holidays in one of the resorts on the Northern part of the Black Sea coast (i.e. Albena, Golden Sands or St. Konstantin) will arrive at and depart from Varna. But trust me, although your first impression gained on the transfer to your hotel might not be too good, Varna is definitely worth a visit!
On your transfer from the airport to your hotel you will pass by districts that are examples of the ugly socialist architecture – and the houses have not been modernized ever since they were built in the 70s and 80s. Many might think that Varna must be a very poor place – indeed, the average monthly income is very low compared to western European standards, it is most probably only a tenth of what you earn. But still, this does not mean that Bulgarians are poor! You’d be surprised how clean and cozily furnished the flats in the houses with ugly facades are. You’ll also be surprised how well dressed young women are! Their look is very important to them; they always dress up, redo their hair and put on some make-up before leaving their house.
The real beauty of Varna will be revealed as soon as you get in touch with the locals or when you visit the center of town with its many old buildings that have luckily been modernized. The contrast between the center of town and the suburbs that you pass on your way from the airport couldn’t be bigger: The City is bright, modern and clean. How to get there? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Maybe some of you will spend their summer holidays in one of the resorts on the northern Black Sea coast, namely Albena, St. Konstantin or GoldenSands. In that case, you will have a flight to Varna and it will be easily to visit the town during your stay.
If you are in St. Konstantin, which is only 8km north of Varna, you can catch the bus no. 8 who departs in the center of the resort and goes alongside the coast to Varna. There is a bus stop in front of the Dolphinarium, then it’s the Sports Complex (“Sportna Zala”), the following stop is the School of Economics. The bus then passes the Hotel Cherno More right in the city and stops in front of the municipality (“Obshtina”) and after just in front of the big cathedral. The drive takes around 25mins and costs less than 0, 50 €. The bus runs every 30mins in summer time.
If you stay at Golden Sands 20km north of Varna, you have several possibilities to get into town. In general, you can take all busses that end with 9: 9, 109, and 409. The route is the same as described above, just longer, about 40 mins.
Tourists in Albena can catch one of the vans
that go directly to the city (cathedral) within about 1 hour.
Those of you who are not in Bulgaria but would like to see Varna anyway, can catch a chartered flight during the summer months (May – October). There are numerous flights from London, Bristol, Manchester, Glasgow etc directly to Varna. For information please contact your travel agent.
Off season the only possibility to get to Varna is to fly on a regular flight to Sofia (BA from London for example) and then catch a domestic flight (Hemus Air, 60€ one way), the train (8 hrs, 10€ in first class) or coach (6 hrs, 10€).
When shall I go? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Despite its southerly location, there are 4 distinctive seasons in Varna. In winter time it is often very cold, snow is not rare at all until March. Due to the sea, the wind is freezing cold. After April, the weather is rather mild, spring is coming! Beach time starts around the beginning of June. July and August are most often very hot, but after mid-August it cools off a little and it usually rains. September is a nice month to visit, as you can still go to the beach, but it is not as hot and crowded anymore.
For sightseeing I’d recommend the months May, June and September. Where to stay? ~~~~~~~~~~~~
The best-known hotels in town are the Hotel Cherno More and the Hotel Odessa, both right in the center of town in the pedestrian zone. But there are also a lot of new, smaller, private hotels like Hotel Reverance opposite the municipality, or Hotel Argo in a little street off the main street. For a night in a not too bad hotel you should calculate around 50€ per night. You can book hotels online e.g. at www.varnahotels.com
What not to miss ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
***The Archaeological Museum***
„Sheinovo“ Str. 5/boul. Maria-Luisa 41, open Tuesday – Saturday 10 – 17.
21 rooms with items from Bronze Age until the 18th century, jewelry from the mid age – a must see!
***Scientific Museum***
In the Sea Garden, open 10 – 17, closed on Mondays.
The Scientific Museum shows you the life of organisms in and around the Black Sea (geology/flora/fauna).
***Ethnographic Museum***
“Panagyurishte” Str., Tuesday – Sunday 10 – 17.
The museum is located in a typical old Bulgarian house that was built around 1860, the oldest house in town. The museum was opened in 1974 and shows the life of the population during the second half of the 19th century and early 20th century.
***Regional Historical Museum***
“8 noemvri” str. 3
This museum deals with Varna’s history and displays about 13,000 items from 1878 until 1939.
***National Naval Museum***
boul. Primorski Polk 2, during the summer opened daily from 10.30 till 18.00
Here you can gather information on the naval history of Bulgaria: Old machine guns and even a submarine from the first Balkan War (1912) are displayed in 12 rooms.
***Roman thermal springs***
The Roman Thermal Springs originate from the time when Varna was called Odessos and was part of the Roman Empire. Judging from the remains, archaeologists think that the bath was one of the biggest ones in the eastern part of the Empire, which emphasizes the importance of Varna at that time. It is estimated that the bath was built during the 2nd half of the 2nd century on an area of 70,000m² with a height of 20m. It was most probably in use until the end of the 3rd century.
***The Sea Garden***
It is impossible to miss the Sea Garden, you can already see it from the bus: alongside the coast is this big garden that stretches on several kilometers. Wide alleys with nice flowers and trees that offer a much needed shade in summer time invite to long walks. For the more active among you, you can inline skate here, play tennis on one of the courts, visit concerts in the open-air-theater, see the terrarium and the aquarium, the scientific museum or the Dolphinarium.
***The Dolphinarium***
Located few kilometers north of the center, embedded in the Sea Garden, is the Dolphinarium. Since it is very easy to reach it is an ideal visit for tourists with children. The bus going to Varna stops at the bus stop called “Delfinarium”, from there it is just a few meters to the building. There are several shows every day, the entrance is about 5€ for adults.
***Sveta Bogorodica***
Varna’s cathedral is her most famous sight, and if you ask me also the most beautiful one. Located right in the center of town and very beautiful in the dark, when the golden domes are illuminated. It has not only been modernized on the outside, but also inside; typical orthodox with many icons. In the entrance is a little shop where you can buy icons, but also candles to light in the inside. According to the tradition, you put the lid candles for living people in the stand, and those for people who have passed away on the bottom in the sand.
***Sveti Nikola***
The church of Saint Nicholas is located in the pedestrian zone at boul. Knias Boris I. It is much smaller than the cathedral, but has its own charm.
Culture ~~~~~~~~~
Varna has a lot to offer when it comes to culture. During the month of July, the “Summer of Varna” takes place, a festival including an international Ballet competition, many concerts and operas, that all take place in the open air theater in the Sea Garden. Can you imagine how wonderful it is to see Carmina Burana open air?
Of course there are also a theater, a puppet theater for the smaller ones and an opera – right in the center in a red baroque building.
In the cinemas, you can watch the same movies that play in other countries at that time. All the movies are original versions with Bulgarian subtitles, thus don’t hesitate to go and watch a movie when the weather is bad. I can recommend the theater “Mustang” opposite the cathedral because of the Dolby surround sound. Tickets are about 4€.
Shopping ~~~~~~~~~~~
You’ll be surprise what a shopping Mecca Varna is! Not only does it offer a very large selection, but also very low prices. The pedestrian zones are filled with shops, many of there are shoe stores (girls, did you hear this?) and all this at affordable costs. You’ll find much plagiarism, thus you better check the quality thoroughly before buying anything.
In general stores are open from 9a.m. till 7-8p.m., many are also open on Sundays, especially in summer time
Here are my personal tips:
***Wrengler***
Yep, the spellings are correct – and guess why: It is not an official Wrangler store. This store, which is located in the pedestrian zone (boul, Knias Boris I) next to Benetton, is filled with jeans, there are thousands of them. Believe me; you’ve never seen so many jeans on such little room! The sales women are very friendly and multilingual; they will show you the newest models and climb up the ladder to get your size. Everything here is fake, but of excellent quality. I have bought some pairs there 3 years ago and they still look like new. Best part is, that they offer the newest models/trends at low prices: One pair of good jeans is 30€. If you just want to buy a plain pair of 501, you need even less, about 20€.
***Leonardo***
Are you wearing glasses as well? Then you should consider getting new ones in Bulgaria! My favourite optician is Leonardo at Dragoman Street off the pedestrian zone, it is the first street on your left after the “Happy” Restaurant. Leonardo imports the glasses from Italy and the quality has always been good. I have bought my favourite pair there in 1999 and I still wear them (just had to change the lenses). You can find the newest models of Armani, Moschino, Gucci, Dior, RayBan, including sun glasses. An ophthalmologist is present every afternoon; he can prescribe you the lenses you need. The production of the glasses takes about 3 days. Quality frames run about 100€, the best lenses are 50€/pair.
***Souvenirs***
The best place to buy typical souvenirs at normal prices is a little store: Coming from the theater, you do not follow
Pictures of Varna
Cathedral
the pedestrian zone towards the cathedral, but pass the theather to its left – you now walk parallel to the pedestrian zone in a little street. After about 50m you reach the Café Casablanca, after some more 30-40m is the shop on your left at a corner. Here you can find nice typical ceramics, tablecloths, CDs, icons and much more – and at much lower prices than in the resorts!
Another source is the little market between the shop just described and the big bus stop opposite the cathedral, where the KFC is (i.e. the market starts just behind KFC). Prices here are higher than in the shop, but still lower than in the resorts. There is also a book market where you can find Bulgarian Dictionaries and phrase books!
***Moira***
My tailor! Have you ever had a suit tailor-made, just for you, according to your ideas and measurements? Now’s the time! Designer Milena will suggest you different cuts, you can get the fabric at the “Damask” store on the Red Square. 1m of very good fabric (100%wool) will costs you around 20€. The service of the tailor will cost you about 70€ incl. all consumables (zips, buttons, etc.) Apart from the money you must also calculate a few days for the work, and you will have to go several times there for the fitting. But don’t worry; the result is well worth it! I will even have my wedding dress made there.
The studio is at “Rakovski” Str. 12 – the street begins at the back side of the municipality and leads to St. Petka church.***Drago & Rado***
If having a suit tailor-made is too complicated or time-consuming for you, why not buy a ready-made one? Drago and Rado are the most famous Bulgarian designers of male fashion, and are originally from Varna. Their store is located at boul. Tsar Osvoboditel: From the School of Economics (VINS) you do not walk towards the Hotel Cherno More, but turn right (direction Red Square). After only 30m you’ll see the store on your left. Shirts of very good quality and easy to iron cost about 30€, suits are about 250€. My husband has already bought 2 suits and several shirts there and is very satisfied with the fit and the quality.
***Market***
Of course there is also a market in Varna! The main market is on Dr. Piskyuliev Str. – best is to take the bus no. 14 from the cathedral. At the entrance of the market you’ll find a large variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, but the further you walk, the more low quality items you’ll find, from household goods to clothes. Beware of pickpockets, keep your distance from gipsy kids, they are very nasty!
***Supermarkets***
If you are into self-catering or simply want to buy some Bulgarian liquor for your loved ones at home, you should visit one of the modern supermarkets. The best ones are Picadilly with few branches throughout the town. Metro can be found in the outskirts of Varna – you do need a cab to get there. Minimum purchase is 25€ per shopping cart.
The Bulgarian cuisine uses a lot of vegetables and was influenced by the Turkish occupation that lasted over 500 years, but also by the proximity of Greece – yes, the Balkans are a melting pot!
Bulgarians start their meal with a fresh salad, preferably shopska (tomatoes, cucumber, onions, and sheep feta), and the accompanying rakia, the strong Bulgarian liquor.
For a bottle of good red wine you usually pay about 5€ in a restaurant, for a main course about as much. 0,5l draft beer costs only 0, 50€ (and the Bulgarian beer is excellent! Try Kamenitsa!) , salads not more than 2€.
Here are my favourite restaurants:
***Pizzicato***
A pizzeria with sensationally good pizza that only cost 4€ max. The restaurant is at Bratia Miladinovi Str.
***Prodadena Nevesta***
This restaurant with the name “Sold bride” is located in the registry office’s building, an old, authentic Bulgarian house at Krali Marko Str. 1. The restaurant is very cozy, you have a huge selection of wine – the bottles are lined up on a wall and you choose from there, they would not fit on a menu. The staff will be glad to help you choosing. The food is excellent; the menu is huge ranging from typical Bulgarian dishes to Chinese cuisine. Only open in the evenings!
***Iglika***
This restaurant is easy to find: It is located in a street off the pedestrian zone at boul. Slivnitsa (leading to the main entrance of the Sea Garden), right on the corner of the boulevard with tables on the sidewalk. It offers many fresh dishes at low prices. A perfect place to watch people!
***Happy***
Happy is a restaurant chain with branches in the city of Varna as well as in Golden Sands and St. Konstantin. Many of the dishes contain chicken, they are all pretty okay and not more than 4€.
***Restaurant Horizont***
A rather posh restaurant (with relevant price level, but still cheap for tourists) in the complex Horizont in the Sea Garden. The atmosphere is a little cold, but the food is good. Please dress properly!
***Hashove***
Hashove has several branches in Varna: One is opposite the municipality, another one is next to the market in Levski district. At Hashove, you can enjoy typical Bulgarian food in a very cozy setting. Prices are rather low. Often there is live folk music!
Nightlife ~~~~~~~~~
Bulgarians love to party, they go out about every evening. Especially in summer time you won’t notice whether it is weekend or weekday – every day is good for partying!
***Comics***
THE club in Varna! Located centrally: opposite the cathedral next to the central post office. Every Friday and Saturday evening the best and longest house parties take place. There are often famous international DJs playing. If you are into house music, trance and techno, don’t miss it! Entrance is just about 3€.
***Town Beach***
In the sea garden on the beach promenade, you can find one open-air-disco next to another. Music ranges from Folk to Pop to Techno.
***Planet***
The best lounge in town! They have a huge variety of cocktails (about 2€ each), play very nice music (Buddha Bar-like) – the place for the young and beautiful! Located opposite the DZI insurance HQ.
Addicted? ~~~~~~~~~~~~
Can’t do without checking your e-mails or surfing to Ciao? Don’t worry, there are a lot of internet cafés all around. In the pedestrian zone for example there is a café called DOOM, right behind St. Nikola church on the corner of “27. yuli” Str. This café is pretty big with about 20 terminals.
Suggestion for a day in Varna ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Since most of my readers will probably discover Varna during their holidays on the coast, we will start our little virtual tour in the resorts and take the bus to town. Get off at the “Delfinarium” bus stop and visit the dolphinarium. After the show walk through the Sea Garden for about 3km, until you reach the main entrance in front of the Hotel Odessa and the Festival and Congress Center. Walk straight on Slivnitsa Boulevard, and after about 80m you see the restaurant Igliika on the second corner. Time to rest and gain new forces – have a nice lunch here! After your delicious meal, turn left into the pedestrian zone of Knias Boris I Boulevard (beginning at the corner where the Mac Donald is). On the right-hand side you can see the St. Nikola church after about 100m which is really worth a visit. Right next to the church is the café Delfin where you can sit outside, watch people while having a fresh coffee and a delicious peace of cake. Walk further through the pedestrian zone, do some shopping if wanted, until you reach the “Nezavisimost” Square with its fountains. On your left-hand side is the department store “Valentina” where you can look for some gifts on the first floor. Few meters further you see the theater, that red baroque building. Pass by the theater by taking the road on its left. Fancy an ice-cream? Café Casablanca, which you reach after 50m, offers great Melba! 50m after that café you reach the shop with good, low-priced souvenirs on your left. After you have completed your shopping there, go through the market to the cathedral and visit it. After your visit, walk left along the Maria-Luisa Boulevard and visit the Archaeological Museum. Go further until you reach the municipality (big, ugly, brown building), cross the street and go to the Restaurant Hashove for dinner. When you feel like returning to your hotel, just turn into Slivnitsa Boulevard and walk in direction of the Sea Garden – after only 30m you’ll see the bus stop where you can catch the bus to the resorts.
Well, this is my not-so-brief introduction of my beloved home town! I hope you enjoyed reading and will feel tempted to pay a visit!
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