High tides in autum and perhaps too many tourists in summer months
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Full review
Well, where to start really when describing Venice....Its amazing, I lived there for 5 years and I can't get enough of it! Hopefully this breakdown will help.
PEOPLE The venitians are lovely people, if somewhat eccentric. The majority of them seem to have developed a blind spot for the masses of tourists which fill Venice almost constantly and manage to go about there business fairly freely. In terms of helping tourists with directions ect., they're not the best. Probably because there are so many tourist points or places selling maps that its not really neccessary to ask them. If you do have to ask someone for directions though, you will get them but they are likely to be in dialect, which I can assure you is incomprehensible! In terms of danger, however, there is none. Venitians are entirely respectible people.
FOOD/WHERE TO EAT One word. FISH. A stay in Venice is not complete without eating copious amounts of fish. If your cooking yourself, fish markets around the Rialto Bridge are the place to go. Some of the fish is still alive when you buy it, its that fresh(!) A word of warning perhaps on shellfish. I would stear clear of mussles, the water around Venice is not particularly clean, and it all ends up inside the mussles. I think they are even often referred to as the cleaners of the laguna. However clams, Capesante, Cappoce and various other unusual looking shell fish are both cheap and delicious. If you can make your way to Campo St. Barnaba, there is a floating vegetable and fish stall. Cheap and amazing.
In terms of what dishes to eat, Chichetti are a venitian speciality. Little bits and pieces of fried fish, squid meats and vegetables. Tiny slices of polenta and deep fried mozzarella. These will be available in all bars for locals and are an excellent snack. Spaghetti alle Vongole (clams) is also rather nice. But as I said, when in Venice do as the Venitians and eat fish, costantty. If you just want a small snack a bar by the Libreria Toetta(just slightly further on, on the left) does amazing panini and tramezzini and a tasty spritz. In terms of places to eat, the toursity places are best avoided unless you want an overpriced and not particularly special meal. Stear well clear of St Marks Square, where coffee can cost as much as a plate of pasta in a real italian restaurant. The best places to go are those for the locals, in small Calle, slighlty hidden away. The best deffinately though is 'AI Promessi Sposi' off of Calle Lunga by the station. However any trattoria or chicheteria bustling with locals at lunch time, is a fairly safe bet. But don't expect frills, just plain white plates, good food and even better wine! Ristorante alla Zucca in Campo San Giacomo all Orio, also for interesting vegetarian food!
PLACES TO SEE This is perhaps where I can't add much to what has already been written. The tour guides will serve you very well in this respect. Just don't try to cram it all in in one day. Venice is all to be seen and needs time. Even the most plain looking churches hide delights! The Palazzo Ducale is definately a must see, but you need a whole day to fully appreciate. Theres nothing worse than having to rush around in the heat! The Galleria Accademia is excellent for art work and usually has some sort of exhibition going on. The queues however can be long and the opening times at certain points of the year are a little unusual. If your keen on visitng make sure you check out times, and try to go on a day when standing outside for a while won't drive you crazy The Basilica in Piazza San Marco is also well worth the visit. Don't, however, pay money to see the extra little bits and bobs. The gold ceilings are most memorable thing, really all you need to see. Palazzo Grassi usually has a themed exhibition on, which are usually fantastic. Local schools use the museum for visits, so expect it to be popular. In terms of smaller churhes, San Zanipolo, Santo Stefano and Madonna dell'orto are probably my favorites. If Titian and Tintoretto are your cup of tea (they should be!!) then make your way to San Sebastiano....a humble little church with hidden treasure. The best museam is perhaps the Galleria Arsenale. History of the navy and all things boat-y...good fun!
FOR CHILDREN
Boat trips are captivating, you can catch a gondola ferry across the Canal Grande at Santa Sofia if you cant bear a full hour of floating! But simply catching a vaporetto is an experience! Sit right at the front and see Venice by water, how it was ment to be seen i'm sure! Glass Blowing workshops are everywhere and provide great entertainment for kids. I was entranced for hours the first time I saw them! However for the best ones hed to the Island of Murano, home of Glass! Mask shops are quite entertaing...I remeber being particularly amused by the plague doctor mask! The abundence of amazing ice cream surely can't be a bad thing ether! Go to 'Da Nico' on the Zattere for the best gianduto, if not to Paolin in campo Santo Stefano
Transport
The best way to get around in Venice is on foot. The little Calle are beautiful and you'll often stumble upon little hidden gems. I would reccomend you take a map though, as if you venture of the main routes, your liable to get lost! Some of the smaller calle look identical and you can often find yourself going around and around in circles without knowing it! Even after 5 years of living and going to school in Venice, I still got lost constantly. Im sure those born in Venice have some sort of inbuilt navigation system!! Batelli (boats) are also a novel way of gettin around, and you probably should go by boat once of twice. However, in the tourist season, the tickets are incredibly expensive and the boats can be crowded. V enice is easily accesible both by bus, from Piazzale Roma and from the main trainstation. Other than the batelli, public transport is very cheap and, without exception, efficient and numerous!
Local Area
If you want beaches the the Lido di Venezia is only a 20min boat journey away. Some of the beaches have a pay fee, but usually these are the nicest ones and are never to expensive. Once on the lido you can get the bus to the furthest end, Alberoni. Here the beaches are free and lovely. Most of the locals tend to come here. Jesolo can be accessed by bus or car and is a very long strip of beaches. Some areas like Piazza Nember and Piazza Drago are nicer than others (Cortleazzo and Piazza Milano). But generally speaking, none are that bad. Bibione and Caorle are also beach resorts, but slightly further away. The beaches are slighlty nicer here, so if you have longer to spend in the area and perhaps are willing to pay for accomodation here, they are worth a visit. The Nearest large town to Venice is Mestre. Is not particularly plesant, but not horrible either. Certainly there are places to avoid, like the 'Via Piave' station area, at night. That is unless you are interested in picking up some young ladies, of course. However, it is good for cheaper accomodation if Venice itself is a little beyond your budget. Hotel 'AI Pini' is a comfortable 3* within walking distance of the mainland train station, and right by a main bus stop. If your in the area go to the 'Chichirichi' pizzeria on via Chiriniago in the Gazzera area. Its a real locals place and often needs booking. However the pizzas are just fantastic, huge and cheap. The piazziolo, Fausto, is renowned in the area and has won numerous competions. Mestre is serviced by international trains and buses that travel as far as the moutains. Deffinately the best serviced in terms of public transport. ACTV runs the local transport service and thier website provides alot of information. One word of warning, tickets cannot be bought on board, but can be purchased easily from all tabachs for 77cents. Very cheap indeed!!
Treviso and Padova are easily accesible via train and are definately worth a visit. Also Bassano Del Grappa is a lovely place to go. Its just into the mountains and, hence the name, is famous for the production of a certain alcohol. Go onto the wooden bridge at sunset, when the wood changes to a lovely golden colour, for the best views!
Mountain towns like Belluno and Agordo can be reached by train or bus from the station in Mestre. Very pretty and deffinately worth a visit!
If i can reccomend a time to go and best enjoy Venice, it would be late febuary/early march, when the carnival is on or September/october time. The tourist rush has calmed so you really get a feel of Venice...This way you can get lost just wandering in the Calle, occasionaly stumbling across an interesting looking church or a little piazza with a intersting plaque....or infact anything!
If any more info is needed, contact me Deborah
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