TRAVEL If you are coming from mainland Europe, you may be able to get a train straight into Venice to Ferrovia (the main station) which is right in the hub of Venice. We arrived into Venice Airport in January 2007. There are lots of methods to get into Venice from the Airport including Water Taxi, Train and bus.
We intended to use our budget wisely, and so opted for the cheapest method - bus. We got on an ATVO blue bus which took us direct to San Roma (the cities bus station) for 3 euros' each.
The station at San Roma is located very close to the River, and it is from here at one of the water bus stops that you can get into the centre of Venice. Venice has no cars and so your only choice is by water.
We purchased a 72 hour ticket which enabled us to travel freely on all water buses for 25 euros (we also then discovered that on an ACTV bus this would have covered our transport to and from the airport). A single ride on a water bus (Vaporetto) is 5 euros and other than our feet it was our main method of transport.
I loved the water bus. It enabled me to take pictures that would have been impossible from a bridge or land. They run pretty much like a tube and there is one night bus called the N route. One thing to note (which is not stated on the maps) is that routes (including the number 3 or 4) only run in the summer. Unlike buses in the UK, each bus along a route does not have the same number. Each bus route has two numbers, one which goes anti clockwise and one clockwise. It is quite simple to work out which one you need from a map. The buses came quite regularly but do stop quite early (apart from route N).
You can get a water taxi to take you wherever you want. We had heard that this is incredibly expensive and so did not take a water taxi. If you do wish to do this then it looked very simple and there were river side taxi ranks.
There are only 2 bridges over the grand canal (main river). If you want a unique experience then you can get a "Traghetto" from a number of different places on the canal. This is basically a gondala which simply transports people from one side of the river to the other. It should cost about half a euro. Try standing up during the crossing like a venetian!
When going to Venice, we decided it would be madness not to have a gondala ride. We took a gondala from Rialto bridge and had the shortest package offered. The government set standard rates for the
gondala's - but these are largely ignored by the Gondoliers. There are a few gondala companies. We asked three and each quoted us exactly the same amound - 80 euros for about 50 minutes. We managed to barter - but this may be impossible in high season. This was a really really special experience - but perhaps because my boyfriend proposed!
Another way to travel is by foot. We had bought the lonely planet which had some walking tours in and really enjoyed taking our time walking over the routes and stopping when we wanted.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at Residenza Canareggio, close to San Alivse and the Jewish Ghetto. This district has a student area (great for late night life, however not in early January!). This was a 4* hotel and everything about it was superb. The building dates back to the 17th Century and was originally a monastery and then a gondola workshop. The reception was large with modern art and a contemporary feel that went througout the hotel. All staff were polite and very helpful with any query. The bar was small but stunningly glamorous.
We were shown to our room by a porter. In the room was a bidet and toilet in one section, bath, sink and shower in another section. The main room had a large double bed, 2 seater leather sofa, tv (with basic package and pay as you view). We had shelving and a wardrobe with adequate hangers. The window opened straight onto the canal (although we had only paid for a garden view). The ceiling was entirely wooden and I presume original. One wall was beautiful brick. The colour scheme was orange/blue/brown which sounds horrible but really worked in a Grand Designs kind of way, mixing the old with the new. We also had access to a safe and minibar.
Our hotel gave bed and breakfast (served from 7.30 to 9.30). The restaurant was superb - again with lots of modern art. The atmosphere was romantic but modern. Once shown to a seat a waitress would offer a hot drink. You could have coffee (which I'm told was superb) a wide selection of teas or hot chocolate. You could help yourself to grapefruit juice or blood orange juice. There was a wide selection of pastries, yoghurt, cereals, fruit, bread and cheese. The cooked breakfast consisted of delicious scrambled egg and grilled parma ham (yum!). Thankfully I can't advise you on how much the hotel cost as it was a birthday present, but I understand you can find it and book it on Expedia.
THINGS TO DO
I personally enjoyed riding the water bus which enables you to see Venice in the most tranquil way (depending on how busy the bus is!)
We visited the Jewish Ghetto museum near Guglie. We had high hopes as the history of the Jews in Venice was very interesting. However, for the 3 euro entrance fee we only found 3 small rooms, two with silverware and one with clothing/tapestry. The only information relating to the history of the Jews in Venice was one board and frankly I learned more from the Lonely Planet guide! It was however an enjoyable experience but I would not recommend the guided tour which is more expensive!
A must is the Basicalla San Marco (St Marks) This was truly spectacular. However, there are a number of things that you should note. Firstly you are not allowed in with bags (even small ones). If you join the queue to get in you will simply have to queue until you get to the front and are turned away. Having read other reviews, whilst we only had to queue for around 10 minutes to reach this point, apparently it can take hours in high season. To store your belongings you are sent round the corner where they are stored in safety for no fee. Another important thing to note is that you will not be allowed in unless you meet the right dress code. This is the same for all churches in Venice. Men must not be in shorts. Women must not show their legs or their arms. Again, do make sure you dress appropriately or you may queue for hours and not be allowed in!
One evening we visited the Scuola Evangislista (a short walk from Ferrovia). The performance we went to included Opera and Ballet with the orchestra and singers wearing traditionaly venetian masks. Our tickets were bought in advance on line for around 40 euros and we understood that there were two different types of seat. It was not worth paying extra for "the better seats" as it was not a theatre but performed more in a large hall (though it was incredibly beautiful) unless you were lucky enough to get one of the front rows (you do not get seat numbers) it would not really matter where you sat.
Before going in we stopped at a wonderful bar and had a glass of wine for around 2 euros each, served with Cicheti (snack). The bar was very much for locals - we returned another day and it was clearly a local's bar. The bar is right near the entrance - you can't miss it.
You can get the water bus to the Lido which is a basically a beach. As it was winter we did not go, but from the reading I have done you generally have to pay for beaches unless you are prepared to walk/get to some of the beaches further away.
GOING OUT AND EATING OUT
Unlike other Italians, Venetian's like to drink. The best things to drink are Prosecco (a sparkling white wine) and spritz. There are 2 types of spritz, bitter or sweet. The bitter is made by mixing prosecco with campari, and a tiny dash of soda water. The sweet is made with Aperol (an orange coloured drink) prosecco and soda water. My partner fell in love with the bitter - but even the sweet version was too bitter for me!
We preferred to drink in local's places due to the atmosphere as well as the budget. We paid around 1 euro for prosecco and 1 euro 30 for a spritz in most of the places that we drank.
You will find that Venice has Bacaros, which are bars which serve tapas like food cheap, things like Bruschetta and olives etc.
Most patiserrie also have a bar at the back, and you will see many venetians getting their cakes and stopping off for a quick spritz.
The food in Venice has a reputation of being overpriced and poor. We never ate one of the "Tourist Menu's" and tried to avoid anywhere which sold them. This is a short set menu for around 15 to 20 euro's. The choice is very limited and the food is meant to be exceptionally poor. Unsuprisingly, there is a lot of seafood on menus. It is hard to avoid them though, and would be fine for a cheap pizza.
We found some fantastic restuarants we would like to share with you, and others that were not so fantastic!
GAM GAM (near Guglie bridge). This is a Jewish Kosher restaurant and we had read many rave reviews of it on the internet. The decor was modern and quite funky but not particularly romantic. We had heard that this place sold cheap and excellent food. Unfortunately we did not agree. The starter of mixed Israeli starters was 9 euro's per person. We ordered one between us which was sufficient. To be honest, it was what I would expect any meze to be like. The falafel was good. It came with humous and the aubergine dip, a salad of cucumber and tomatoes and coleslaw. The food was good but to be honest really very standard and I have eaten far better for less in London. The main courses are where it all went down hill. I ordered the meat cous cous. The cous cous was plain and lacked flavour, the meat was fine (but there was very little of it) and it was served with leeks, carrotts and celery all of which tasted of water and had been cooked for what tasted like hours. There was no sauce. My partner ordered the fish cous cous which was apparently better but still poor. At around 15 euro's for each cous cous, this was the most disappointing food we had in the whole of Venice.
ALL' ANFORA in Santa Croce We found this wonderful and would recommend it for anyone who likes pizza. You know you are in a good place when the other diners around you are gondoliers! The pizza's were enormous and good value (around 7 euro's each). We also ordered a carafe of white wine which was also good and very inexpensive.
CUCINA CASALINGA, Campo Santa Margherita (Dorsoduro) We found this whole square wonderful, and it has a very local venetian (no tourists) feel. There are 2 good wine shops (one of which will fill up water bottles full of decent wine for a few euros - this is how the venetians shop!). There is also a nice bar in the square itself which was very good value. This restaurant in particular was superb. It was clearly a family run restaurant and the service was excellent. My partner ordered squid ink pasta which was around 7 euros and was apparently wonderful! I ordered lasagne for around 6 euros (also delicious). We also had a mixed salad and some potatoes and some house wine. The food was wonderful and very reasonable.
AL ANTICA MOLO, Fondamenta Degli Ormesini We stumbled accross this restaurant along the Canareggio canal close opposite the Jewish Ghetto. Close by are restaurants along from Guglie bridge were around 30 euros a main course, but we found this gem only 5 mintues walk away where main courses were around 12 euros or less.
You may need to book particularly in high season, we were turned away at first but came back undeterred as it looked so good! The man serving spoke no english but communication worked just fine. I ordered a starter which was the speciality. It was a bean soup with pasta and was absolutely gorgeous. My partner ordered salmon pasta which was also delicious. For main courses, we ordered a mixed salad. My partner ordered a fish which we think (communication issues) had either sold out or was off the menu, and so the waiter pointed at something else on the meu which my partner agreed to. I ordered a medium steak with green pepper sauce. My steak was cooked to perfection and melted in the mouth. My partners fish was brought out, filleted perfectly in frount of him and served. He says it was wonderful.
We were too stuffed for pudding, but my partner had a coffee too which was also good. We had a really nice bottle of wine and the bill came in at around 70 euros. Still, we had no complaints as the food was the best we had tasted in Venice.
OTHER TIPS
When you arrive at a restaurant, bread is usually brought to the table. This is normally very stale and is not free - you will get charged at the end of the meal if you eat it.
Near to the water bus stops at the bus station (San Roma) there is a very good value Co-op Supermarket. I bought some chocolates here which I saw at the Airport for over 7 times what I had paid. There are also apparently supermarkets called Billa. We saw one once but never got round to going in I'm afraid.
Get a decent map. It can be quite hard to navigate around Venice as there are so many little pathways and alleys. Still half the fun is in getting lost.
Wander off the beaten track. All the great restaurants and bars we found were nowhere near any tourist areas. The only food and bars we found expensive or disappointing were the ones in these areas.
Avoid stalls along the river unless desperate. These sold bottles of wine and food at extortionate prices. If on a budget carry water bottles with you in case you find somewhere who will top them up with wine for a few euro's.
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It is a spectular place. Great review. Maureen x x
Collingwood21 18.03.2007 18:23
I think one of my most memorable experiences in Venice was visiting a glassmaking workshop and seeing a demonstration of how they made the beautiful Venetian glass. I got a lovely little glass cat as a souvenir. :-)
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Advantages: lots to see, unusual with the canals, interesting place to visit Disadvantages: water can smell in summer, money vanishes too quickly, not good for a long holiday
emmorticia 07.10.2003 ·
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Review of Venice (Italy)
Mar 18th, 2007
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