Wye Valley

...we often visited was the Wye Valley mostly centred on Chepstow and the short trip to Tintern Abbey. As I grew up and had my own daughter we went exploring around the Wye Valley learning some of its history and visiting the many castles along the way. It was not until 1971 that the Wye Valley was listed as an area of outstanding Natural Beauty (AONA) and became a protected area.

The source of the river Wye starts at Plynlimon in the ...
...the babbling of the river Wye as it passes through the deep ravines cut into the landscape.

Here the visitor can sense the brooding atmosphere of the place and at night the mist swirls around the Abbey conjuring up ghostly images of the monks who once sang hymns to the glory of god.

Following along the route to Monmouth the river twists and turns until it reaches the Forest of Dean, a shrouded canopy of trees stretching ... more

It's often strange how people overlook the natural beauty of the countryside around them seeking new places abroad rather than seeing the wonders around their own city or town. I live in South Wales in the new city of Newport close to many areas of outstanding natural beauty. In my younger years we were poor and day-trips were the most we could afford so I learnt at an early age how privileged I was to live so near to such places. One of the places we often visited was the Wye Valley mostly centred on Chepstow and the short trip to Tintern Abbey. As I grew up and had my own daughter we went exploring around the Wye Valley learning some of its history and visiting the many castles along the way. It was not until 1971 that the Wye Valley was listed as an area of outstanding Natural Beauty (AONA) and became a protected area.

The source of the river Wye starts at Plynlimon in the land of Owen Glyndwr and the Mabinogion (ancient Welsh history) flowing through several counties on its 130-mile journey to join the Bristol Channel. In the reign of Henry VIII the surrounding area of Monmouthshire including parts of Wales were given over to the English and the glorious Tintern Abbey founded by the Cistercian monks in 1131 AD was ransacked and reduced to a near ruin. But it still remained, a testament to the builders and a place of magical mystery. Turner was the most famous artist to paint the ruins giving it an air of a place out of time, a swirling display of towering images reaching into the skies above. Over the centuries it has inspired artists and poets alike. Wordsworth penned one of his best-known poems here an ode to its timeless beauty. The first few lines are well known to scholars all over the country and a fitting tribute to this ancient monument that still draws thousands of tourists to visit to this day.

Five years have past; five summers with the length
Of five long winters! and again I hear
These waters, rolling from their mountain-springs
With a soft inland murmer. - Once again
Do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs,
That on a wild secluded scene impress
Thoughts of more deep seclusion; and connect
The landscape with the quiet of the sky.

William Wordsworth. 1798.

Wonderful words that lift the spirit and impress upon the visitor the babbling of the river Wye as it passes through the deep ravines cut into the landscape.

Here the visitor can sense the brooding atmosphere of the place and at night the mist swirls around the Abbey conjuring up ghostly images of the monks who once sang hymns to the glory of god.

Following along the route to Monmouth the river twists and turns until it reaches the Forest of Dean, a shrouded canopy of trees stretching from Monmouth to Lydney. This was once a Royal Forest but was designated a National Forest Park in 1938. History abounds in this area from ancient Megalithic sites to the craft of mining for iron ore and the charcoal burning which was used in the smelting of iron. Iron ore was mined here for 3000 years and a trip to Clearwell Caves will give the visitor a flavour of these times with eight caverns open to visitors. I could write a review on this ancient forest alone but suffice it to say that it's a place that caters for anyone. Put aside the cares of modern day living and take a walking trip or stay at one of the many delightful bed and breakfast lodgings, which welcome visitors with open arms. Harvest time is still kept traditionally in this area and on one of many visits I stayed at Parkend where one of the local pubs were raffling off the "Harvest bread loaf" a work of art itself made in the mould of several centuries of tradition.

Follow the course of the Wye River as it flows on the English side through Ross-on Wye taking a detour along the way to visit Goodrich castle one of the many Norman castles in this region. Built on a red sandstone crag it commands views over the countryside and has its own "resident" ghost. Known once as Godric's castle it was built in the early 12 century possible on the site of a much earlier hill fort, as are many of the castles in Wales and its surrounding sites. Just before you arrive in Monmouth take a turn into Symonds Yat (west side) one of my own personal favourite places to spend a day out. You can easily spend a whole day here or use it as a base for touring.

Take a boat-trip along the river. Symonds Yat is a haven for canoeists and white-water rafters a challenging watercourse for novices and experts alike.
Visitors to Symonds Yat can cross to the other side of the water taking a steep road up to the Yat rock where you can park your car and walk up to the wooded limestone outcrop and watch through binoculars or use the many viewers to watch the Peregrine Falcons in flight. Even if you are not a bird-watcher I can guarantee you will be mesmerised by these birds of prey in flight.
Going back to the West side you can wander around the maze, shop in the large store which caters for all tastes or just sit in the many pubs overlooking the river and relax with a well-earned pint. Just inside the entrance you will find the Old Court Hotel, an old building with considerable charm. Inside the bar you'll find upholstered seats, low ceilings and old oak beams overhead. This is a high-class hotel where you can sleep in a real four-poster bed or choose the more modern outbuilding with cane chairs and a superb restaurant. Weddings can be booked here but they do have a long waiting list.

The vale of the Wye cuts through many of the small welsh towns and following its route through such towns as Abergavenny, Monmouth, Chepstow, Raglan and Caldicot its worth stopping off to visit the many castles around these towns.
Abergavenny is a market town where you can find a bustling market on Wednesdays or just stroll around the shops that cater for the ordinary tourist but also has many craft shops that sell quality goods. The old castle is in ruins now and little can be seen of its former glory since it was besieged by the English troops when Owen Glyndwr held it for months.

The area abounds in castles most of which now lay in ruins abandoned by the Normans who strove to keep the warring troops of the Welsh out of the area which was originally called the Marches given to the Normans to keep the peace between the Welsh and the English. Visit Raglan castle, White Castle, Skenfrith, Grosmont and Chepstow all in ruins but well worth a visit. If you are feeling adventurous climb the Skirrid Mountain owned by the National Trust and see the vista of the surrounding countryside on a good day you can see across the channel to Avon mouth and the coastline of England.

Many of the castles hold yearly events where in the daytime Roundheads battle the Cavaliers in an echo of the past. Many of the castles have open-air plays featuring the works of Shakespeare or other well-known playwrights. These are held in the evenings lending an atmosphere of ancient days with the castles lit up spearing the darkness with light. To watch a play performed in this way is a delight that cannot be expressed by words alone. People from far and near sit in the grounds on blankets, rugs or waterproof sheeting. The charges are very reasonable with fireworks lighting the night sky at the end of the performance, truly a spectacle not to be missed. What better way to watch a play than in the grounds of an ancient castle? People leave dazzled by the experience even the children are hushed by the sense of the past touching them.

There are many little guesthouses, caravan sites and places to camp all geared for those who are looking to enjoying their favourite sports whether it be walking, fishing, canal-cruising, golf, cycling, canoeing, gliding, bird-watching or just getting away from the crowded towns and sight-seeing. Wherever you go you will find the River Wye meandering through the countryside calling out for you to stop a while and be at peace with the only sounds of the water cascading over rocks or inviting you to stretch your weary legs and paddle in the shallows. Thrill to the sight of the river where it passes through high gorges watch the play of light on the water as it reflects the ever-changing light of the sky.

Whatever season you choose to visit this part of the country the colours are sublime bringing out the artist and the poet in all bar the few who cannot appreciate this untamed wilderness. My favourite time of year is Autumn when the leaves cast there burnished golden hues over the land and the river is ablaze with all the colours of the season, russet-brown, ochre, green, gold, crimson, violet and deep blue.

This can be a wonderful holiday for the family, couples on their own, lone hikers, teams of sports' enthusiasts or even those who want a bit of luxury but also see something of glorious countryside. Newport has the world-class famous golf course situated within the grounds of the Celtic Manor hotel where every kind of luxury is available. Camping grounds can be found in any of the areas I have mentioned and caravan sites are springing up to cope with the influx of tourists but don't be put off by thinking this area has been over-commercialised you can still walk for many miles and not see a soul all day.
It doesn't have to be expensive either with plenty of Youth Hostels beckoning to the weary walker to rest up before moving on to explore another site. B&B is still relatively inexpensive especially in the Forest of Dean.

Take the children to explore the many adventure sites in the forests (all free) or get a family ticket and visit the castles, even better sign up for membership with The National Trust and use it for many day-trips and holidays in other places. Of course you can wander around the outskirts of the castles or choose those with minimal entry fees. A local forest near to Newport, Wentwood, has free barbeque sites and a wonderful view over the Bristol Channel. Newport has a large leisure complex where the children can enjoy riding the slide into the shallow waters of the indoor pool. Concerts cater nightly for adults, teenagers and children alike. From here you can easily reach any of the places along the Wye Valley. Nearby is a dry ski-slope for those like me that have never tried the real thing and children can use this without fear of being hurt. Charter a small plane and enjoy the Arial views there is so much choice for everyone.

References to Owen Glyndwr may confuse some people so a brief mention will help to explain. Wales only ever had one real King, Llewllyn who was betrayed by the English king Henry 11 and subsequently no other Prince of Wales were allowed by the English monarchy. Owen Gylndwr led a revolt in the early years of the 1400's and became a legend and a inspiration to many of the bards of that time, ultimately the English drove him to seek refuge but not before many of the Norman castles fell at the hands of him and his followers.

The official Wye Valley starts when you come off the M4 and travel on the M50 through Ross-on-Wye down to Chepstow. As soon as you see the sign "Croeso y Cymru" you have entered Wales and will receive that warm welcome wherever you may go. Come and see my countryside, dine in style or stop at the many small pubs which welcome children with play areas in most places. Explore on foot or drive through some of the most beautiful countryside you will ever see.

Come with me upon a journey
It's pleasures to unfold
A land of timeless beauty
A source of liquid gold
From the mountains to the sea
Tumbling through deep gorges
A place of mystery
Ancient legends cast their spell
No one can deny
This deep profound solitude
They call the River Wye.
© Lisa Fuller August 2005.

Thanks for reading
Lisa.

 

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