I was a little unsure about writing this particular review, Vienna’s Central Cemetery, Zentralfriedhof. Where to start?
As part of my family history research, I often go “grave wandering” as my son calls it. This may seem a little morbid and strange. But the connection I feel from visiting an ancestor’s grave is undeniably strong. And this too, was one of the main reasons for visiting Vienna’s cemetery, the final resting place of my idols, the musicians who had died in Vienna. I wanted to feel that connection.
The central cemetery lies on the southern outskirts of the city and can be reached by tram, numbers 71 or 72. The trams run at frequent intervals and the journey takes about 10 minutes.
The Central Cemetery opened in the year 1874. The buildings were designed by the German architects Mylius and Bluntschi . In 1881 the Viennese council decided to dedicate the centre of the cemetery to 'famous personalities’. These honour graves, as they are referred to, include the graves of musicians, artists, writers and politicians. There are approximately 500 honour graves.
Standing at the far end of the central pathway is the domed church of Dr Karl Lueger. designed by Max Hegele and constructed between 1907-1910. The church is art nouveau in style church crowned with a 60 meters high dome. It was originally intended purely for funerals but following the unexpected death of mayor Karl Lueger in 1910, it was re-designed to also be a monument to Lueger.
The Viennese central cemetery is unbelievably vast, the second largest cemetery in Europe. There are approximately 330000 graves almost twice as many as the current population of Vienna. Apart from the honour graves, the largest section of the cemetery is devoted to catholic burials. There are also areas dedicated to the burials of Protestant, Islamic, Jewish, Evangelical and Russian Orthodox.
Of the Honour graves, the musician section is by far the largest. Not all the musicians were initially buried in the Central Cemetery. Many were buried elsewhere and their remains moved to their present location.
Ludwig van Beethoven died on the 26th March 1827 and was buried at the Währing cemetery in Vienna on the 29th. His remains were moved to the Central Cemetery on the 22nd June 1888 and an enlarged replica of the gravestone constructed of the original, which still stands in the former Währinger cemetery. It consists of a simple white marble obelisk decorated with a gold harp and a single word in black, Beethoven.
Franz Schubert was the only actually musician born in Vienna. He died on the 19th November 1828 and was buried next to Beethoven at Wahring cemetery on the 21st. His remains were moved to the Central Cemetery in 1888. The relief in the gravestone was sculpted by Karl Kundmann and the architecture of the stone was by Theophil Hansen.
Johannes Brahms died on 3rd May 1897 and was buried in Central Cemetery soon after. His gravestone is a bust of the composer studying his music.
Johann Strauss, the Younger died on 3rd June 1899 and after a majestic funeral was buried in Central Cemetery. His gravestone is probably the most ornate in the cemetery. Standing approximately six feet tall, there is a cameo of the composer inset into the stone above a group of angels playing instruments and dancing. A full-length female figure leans on the headstone bearing his name and that of his wife who was later buried in the same grave.
Also buried within the cemetery are his brothers, Joseph Strauss who died on 22nd July 1870 and Edward Strauss who died 0n 28th December 1916. Both were also composers.
Johann Strauss the Elder’s remains were also moved to the Central Cemetery. He died on 25th September 1849. A cameo set in black marble triangular stone marks his grave.
Although, Mozart was not buried at the Cemetery, a monument has been erected to his memory.
Other Honor graves include Hugo Wolf (composer) who died on 22nd February 1903, Johann Nestroy (writer) who died on 25th May 1862 and Arnold Schonberg who died on 13th July 1951.
The Cemetery is open daily between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. The opening hours are extended during the summer months.
I was glad to have made time to see this cemetery. It is an experience in itself even if you don’t visit the “honor graves”, the quality of the sculptures and carvings on the grave stones and monuments are staggering and easily equivalent to a museum or art gallery. It may seem a morbid thing to do but if you get the chance to go you will find the visit to be a rich and rewarding one. And yes, I did feel a connection.
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