5 am in the morning. A morning that began around 10 pm the previous night. We arrived at the Glaciar Perito Moreno much later than anticipated, due to atrocious weather and an extremely luckily avoided certainly fateful car crash due to my ex-partner's excellent driving reflexes, when our car very nearly skidded off a turning and into a rather pronounced ditch (we were not even driving at 50 mph). Upon our arrival the place was deserted, there was no soul to be found. No guides, no guards, no humans, no other forms of animal life…. But an overwhelming and breathing ice presence! Although it ...
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